Made in the shade
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|All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. MORE INFO >>>|
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
This is a fun single pitch line on the backside of the Super Crack/Paradise Alley buttress that is a good bit shadier than most lines there. The climbing is trickier than the average shortoff jug fest and is worth a go, despite a brief secton of semi-chossy rock in the middle.
It can be easily approached by rapping in from the large ledge just below the top of the buttress (instead of doing the step-across move last pitch, climb down about 15' to large ledge, build anchor and rap 90').
Alternatively, it can be accessed by climbing P-1 of "stopperhead arete" or "lichen express", then moving into the gully to the obvious route on the steep left wall.
Start by climbing a cool left leaning flake to crux a section protected by 2 bolts. Continue up wall past lots of gear options in horizontal features and a couple tricky pods - including a bomber pink tricam. Maintain the pump factor and continue up to your rap anchor for belay.
See description and/or topo photo on main page.
Standard rack, plus doubles in small to medium cams and a pink tricam