REI Community
Area 51
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Tigger in the Morgue S 
Balefire S 
Cage Match S 
Crossing the Line S 
Did you Kiss? S 
Free Range Show Poodle S 
Game Theory S 
Instant Gratification S 
Lunate S 
Made in The Shade S 
Mr. Smiley S 
Natural Progression S 
Natural Regression S 
Next Time S 
Nope, just sex S 
Project, The S 
Replicant T 
Safety Word S 
Saider S 
Scaphoid S 
Skin Job S 
Smack Down S 
Stays in Vegas S 
Tigger T 
Unnamed (Traddies Have Landed) T 
Waco not Hueco S 
Way of the Cougared S 

Made in The Shade 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Munson
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on May 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: What was the 6th "perma" draw...

  • South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>
  • Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Made in the Shade is a fun pitch, but I wouldn't recommend it if you strongly dislike manufactured holds. Be prepared for a series of glued on handle bars.

    The beginning of the pitch travels up a crack and then traverses left out the roof. Make long pumpy moves between these holds and then get ready to bear down for a lockoff crux at the eighth bolt. Natural dinner plate jugs take you to the anchor.

    Location 

    Travels up the left side of the main cave at Area 51. Begins in a corner crack feature.

    Protection 

    9 bolts + anchor


    Comments on Made in The Shade Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By AndyJohnson
    From: Alexandria, VA
    Sep 16, 2013
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    I am a little conflicted about this route. I can't rationally reconcile my belief that the glued handlebars are unethical and set a disturbing precedent with my feeling of complete joy while making the moves. I give the climbing 4 stars, but the route significantly less praise given its unnatural creation.

    Also, if either the detached flake or the marginally-chocked block at the start of the route fall out, it is going to be a bad day for someone. You can make it past the flake without touching it, but I needed to pull down gently on the block to get past it. Bring 3 draws for the last bolt and anchor; the anchor has open shuts.
    By camhead
    From: Vandalia, Appalachia
    Dec 31, 2013

    I gave Made in the Shade a slightly higher quality star rating than Crossing the Line, since its crux is not manufactured. The crux is, in my opinion, harder than that of Crossing the Line, and actually climbs more like a route at Endless Wall (high step, lockoff) than its Area 51 neighbors do.

    In the end, you just have to think of this route and Crossing the Line as the climbing version of a porn star's breasts– totally manufactured, but still a hell of a lot of fun, and even aesthetic. If you don't like manufactured routes, get on The Project or Next Time, both very quality too.
    By AndyJohnson
    From: Alexandria, VA
    Oct 21, 2014
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    As of 10/18/14, a natural jug flake that used to be at the 6th bolt was sitting on a boulder at the base of the crag. From the glued-on handlebars, I clipped the 5th bolt and moved to a large flake at the lip of the next short roof. The next move was to the flake that broke off on the underside of the next short roof.

    The missing flake may have been used to clip the 6th bolt. A smaller crimp is left behind where the flake used to be and is next to a larger hold on the corner. The grade is likely unchanged, as this section was not the crux, but the climbing between the 2 good rests (at the 5th bolt and 7th bolt) is probably more pumpy.
    By Mark Paulson
    Sep 5, 2017

    The BD spectra quickdraw at the 6th bolt broke under body weight today. My buddy clipped it and hung, and it snapped about 10 seconds later. Remember that all in situ nylon/spectra gear should be treated with caution! I honestly can't remember if it was clipped to a chain, or if it's the only bolt without a permanent chain, but you should definitely take a spare draw if you get on it.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About