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Roadwork Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Impotent  T 
Made in the Shade T 
Manzanar T 
Out on a Limb T 
Overpass T 
Road Work T 
Soft Shoulder T 

Made in the Shade 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 360'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alex Schmauss, Charlie Johnson (3/87)
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: outdooreric on Feb 18, 2007

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Description 

The crux comes right away. The thin dirt-filled finger crack has thin pro and moves. When I climbed this, it felt a bit harder, since I was digging pine needles out of the crack with my nut tool so I could place pro and get my fingers in. Once past the offending pine tree, the climbing gets a lot cleaner. The crack system eventually becomes a chimney. Belay on a ledge at 180'. Another 180' pitch leads to the top on more grainy 5.7 terrain.

Location 

Left side of the Roadwork Wall. 3rd-class descent to the left.

Protection 

1-2 each cams, fingers to a 4-inch piece.


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By Tavis Ricksecker
Mar 25, 2009

I retreated from this one when I saw how much vegetation was in the crack. Scare-wee
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Aug 25, 2011

The first 20 feet or so looked insecure and scary. The base was also swarming (SWARMING!!) with ants, which made my decision to skip this one all the easier.
By J Smith
Sep 5, 2011

The start looks harder and scarier than it turns out to be. Definitely bring a C4 #5 or equivalent for the 2nd pitch. A single rap with TWO 60m ropes gets you down. Watch out for sap at the base of the route, we flaked our rope right onto it.