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Alien Sex  S 
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Made in Japan S 
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Sun Spots T,S 

Made in Japan 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Victor Marcus
Page Views: 3,492
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on May 7, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Made in Japan is a long vertical climb that begins on the blunt arete on the main face of Space Wall. It first uses a finger crack before finding its way past a series of flakes to some technical face moves before finally turning the arete and finishing on some easier slabby granite.

Some of the large flakes are a little loose and will probably fall off one day. I recommend getting on the route before that happens because Made in Japan isn't worth missing.


8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Recommend a sling for 3rd bolt.

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By Nikolai Daiss-Fechner
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 26, 2005

Just a couple of updates to this area. If you plan on parking close to the summit of Donnar Pass, for climbes on school house rock, grouse slabs, star wall, and others, try to park on the road. Sugar Bowl Academy (formerly ASI) does not allow the general public to use their parking lot. If you are going to park there, make sure you are in the dirt part close to the metal shed. The same thing goes for the bathrooms in the school. They legally can not allow public to use them so please dont ask. The closest restrooms are, the outhouse in front of snowshed, donner ski ranch(if someone happens to be there in the summer), and 2 miles back towards I-80 in the cafe. If you have any questions on the area, I do live here part time. There are some great climbes!!!
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 5, 2006

The first clip is zesty, and a spotter or 3 will definately help in case your hand pops before you get the first draw clipped.

It's also worth noting that there is a new route that is NOT in Carville's book, which sits immediately left of Made in Japan. This route (I don't remember the name) is a 5.12c, and will be an interesting sustained surprise for anyone expecting the .11a Made in Japan.

The easiest way to find Made in Japan is to find the route ON the Arete at the start and finish.
By 426
Mar 6, 2007

The route you refer to is "Purple Toupee" iirc. It's pretty height dependent but 5.12 no matter how you slice it.

Start just rightof the arete for MIJ! A small finger crack is a good starting point...
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Mar 16, 2009

Made in Japan is a great route. The first bolt can be sketch, the last moves to the anchors are heady.
By danielwhore
Dec 17, 2011

Wow.. It's crazy good. Clip the first draw by coming in from the side, then lower and climb it from the bottom once clipped.. Holds are tiny at the top!
By coreylee
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 19, 2013

If this climb were in Boulder Canyon it would be 12a.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 15, 2013

Holy cow! Way fun sport climbing. More like the interesting face sections on a trad climb condensed into one route.

For a Donner-centric comparison, I think that Little Feat at Snowshed Wall (graded 5.10d with a big smirk) is harder than this, but I'll take the onsight ego fluff this climb gave me every day of the week ;).

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