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Made From Fire 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 451
Submitted By: Mr. Stevens on Jul 22, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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upper 2/3 of the route

Description 

This climb is super bad! I mean that in the way that Michael Jackson was Bad. Essentially a harder, and better version of the nearby "Meltdown". The route follows a twin crack system, but the right "crack" is more of just a flare and only usable in a few spots. Make a hard move off the ground and get some good locks and thin, flaring hand jams to a tough move off of a pinch to gain a sloping ledge. Move left on jugs and get a good rest below the thin crack. Place some high pieces and punch it through 20 feet of technical and insecure climbing. Fancy footwork is key to success here as the locks are not that great. Figure out the sequence that works for you and hit the "thank god" hand jam! Some pumpy, 5.9 jamming gets you to the anchors.

This felt quite a bit harder to me than Sentry Box, but that's just, like, you know, my opinion.

Location 

to the left of Eye Catcher, at the top of the fixed line.

Protection 

The gear I used in order was:

gold BD nut
silver BD nut
0.5 camalot
#1 camalot
#1 camalot
red DMM offset nut
blue DMM offset nut
red BD nut
blue BD nut (the big one)
yellow metolius
#2 camalot
0.75 camalot


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By kerwinl
Oct 23, 2015

Its worth hiking up there just to climb this route, its that good!

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