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4 Crack T 
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Slabmeister T 
Variety Crack T 

Madcap 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: September 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 3, 2015

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Description 

Climb into chimney, then up to two parallel, vertical cracks rising slightly rightward. Take these to a point where moving left reaches a sinuous, left-rising diagonal crack. Take that to its end at a ledge, then step back out on the slab and climb (no protection) to the top, moving up and right to reach trustworthy trees.

Location 

If you can find Fifi Fingers, this is about 65' to the left, just as the spruce thicket begins, at a dirty notch becoming a flaring chimney at head height. The chimney is short-lived; above, it separates into several crack lines.
To descend, rappel from one of the oak trees near the top-out, or walk 100' right to the fixed tree anchor above Fifi Fingers.

Protection 

Medium nuts, Tri-cams, and a double set of cams from .3" to 3".


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