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The Bastille - N Face
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Bastille Crack, The T 
Coach's Demise T,TR 
Cross-country T 
Crossfire T 
Derek-Tissima TR 
Direct North Face T 
DNF 5.10 variation T 
Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 
Independent Study T 
Inner Space T 
Interceptor T 
Lilliburlero T 
Liquor Mart T 
Madame Guillotine S 
March of Dimes T 
Marie Antoinette T 
Model Citizen T 
Nexus T 
Northcutt Start T,TR 
Northeast Corner T 
Northwest Corner T 
Outer Face T 
Outer Space T 
Prow Finish T 
Saturnalia T 
Shatek's Ramp-age T 
Space T 
Space Invaders T,S 
Spice Tour, The T 
Werk Supp T 
Wide Country T 
Wide Times T 
X-M T 

Madame Guillotine 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989
Fixed Hardware: 9 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,629
Submitted By: Scott Bennett on Apr 20, 2010

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Cruxing on Madame Guillotine. Photo by Rob Kepley.

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  • Description 

    Madame Guillotine is a fine sport pitch on the clean, blank-looking face between Werk Supp and Bastille Crack.

    Start up Marie Antoinette, a thin crack just to the right of Werk Supp that ends about 20' up. Where the crack ends, embark on a long, rising, bolt-protected traverse to the right (crux). The climbing here is very typical of Eldo: you either have a decent handhold, or a decent foothold, but rarely both!

    Before reaching Bastille Crack, continue straight up past more bolts on fun, thin face climbing (5.11). After the last bolt, trend right to meet up with Bastille Crack just below its second belay.

    There are a few worthy variations:
    If you want a short, single pitch of hard climbing, you can do the crux of MG past the first 4 bolts, and then traverse right into the crux of the Northcutt Start, and finish at the two bolt anchor on that route.

    If you want a long, but somewhat easier pitch, you can climb Marie Antoinette through it's crux runout (5.9X), up to the bolt on that route, and then traverse up and right to join the upper half of Madame Guillotine (5.11). Belay on Bastille Crack.

    The proudest link-up would be Madame Guillotine into Hairstyles and Attitudes!


    Many draws and a light rack.

    I used a yellow Alien getting up to the first bolt, and then a green and a red Camalot to make the belay on the Bastille Crack at the end of the pitch (fixed pin here as well).

    Photos of Madame Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Bennett.
    Scott Bennett.

    Comments on Madame Guillotine Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott Bennett
    Apr 20, 2010

    Sorry, I don't have my guidebook with me to check the FA info. Anyone know who put this up?
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Apr 20, 2010

    FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989.
    By Scott Bennett
    Sep 24, 2010

    A few more variations for those looking to enjoy the upper 5.11 section of MG:
    You can start on the Northcutt Start, and continue up the thin corner to start clipping bolts on MG.
    You can also Climb Werk Supp to Nexus into the upper 3 bolts of MG.

    All are great variation pitches on good rock!
    By Brady Robinson
    Oct 8, 2012

    News Flash - All nine bolts on Madame Guillotine were recently replaced. All new bolts are 1/2" x 4.75" stainless Powers 5-piece. Allegedly completed by masked bandits with bad attitudes and a beat up Bosch.

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