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Mad Skilz 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: JBaker, JBecker, JShiefman, BKristofitz Mar 2009
Page Views: 665
Submitted By: jbak on May 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Mad Skilz

Description 

The route in question. 3 sections of varied climbing: a steep blocky section leading to a little roof....a slab (!).... a sublime stem/lieback dihedral.

The blocky section is pretty fun now that I've trundled and reinforced. The slab has the best slab crux I've ever done (and I've been climbing over 1/3 of a century). The dihedral is amazing...I wish it went on for another 50 feet. One of the most unusual lines in So. Az.

The technical crux is the transition from roof to slab. But the rest of the climb will give you plenty more opportunity to fail, espec the top of the dihedral.

The bottom of this line was death blocks and dense choss when I found it. Take that into consideration if you feel the need to judge.

I originally tried to rate this 12a, but Josie, Joe and Brian pummeled me.

Location 

The tall east face of Skillsaw.

Protection 

12 bolts plus 2 chain draws to a chain anchor.


Photos of Mad Skilz Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fat old guy on FA on a chilly day.  Photo by Josie...
Fat old guy on FA on a chilly day. Photo by Josie...

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By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
May 28, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

An interesting triptych of a route that straddles the arbitrary line of acceptable development. The movement is spectacular, sustained, and varied. The first panel is juggy choss, an entrance fee for the main event. The second panel climbs a desperate less-than-vertical seam. The final panel is a pristine dihedral. From strictly a movement perspective this route is great. Aesthetically the bottom tier is choss, the middle will forever be exfoliating, and the top is granite perfection. The route is glued and chipped.

Would I like to see routes of this style proliferate? No. Did I enjoy climbing this line? Yes.

In May this route goes into the shade at 1pm; the belay is fully shaded by 2pm.

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