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Short Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belay Girl S 
Bombay T 
Calcutta T 
Double Trouble TR 
Face to Face TR 
Fluff Boy T 
Lateralus T 
Left Arete TR 
Left V Crack T 
Mad Race T 
Pfundt's Folly T 
Riff Raff Roof T 
Right V Crack T 
Step 'n Out T 

Mad Race 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,109
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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This is the obvious crack that separates the face with Double Trouble (5.10a) and Fluff Boy (5.8).

Unprotected, but easy, climbing leads up to the base of the crack proper which affords good jams and protection. The crux comes about two-thirds height, just past the point where Fluff Boy cuts off right, and involves negotiating a short offwidth section (face left). After the crux the angle kicks back and it's a breeze to the top.

The descent is tricky to do without the difficulty exceeding that of the route itself (welcome to Joshua Tree!), but the easiest way is to head right and then tunnel through until you come out above the Right V Crack. Make a leap (rope up if needed) across to the top of Linda's Face, where easy slabs lead the rest of the way to the ground.

A decent route for the beginner leader that features a somewhat involved downclimb - perfect training for the many complex descents found at Joshua Tree. One star out of five.


pro to 3.5"

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By 72HW Holly
Feb 19, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Uh - maybe I'm being too picky, but if I were to have lead this as one of my first times on the sharp end, I think I would have sold my rack and took up curling instead. Insecure feeling, off balance, elbow jams and wonky chimney moves towards the top. Just not fun. Maybe this route (as listed on differs from the one in Vogel's guide and I climbed something else, but I kinda doubt it. And just to have it said, my wife who followed me up this grunt fest agrees 100% with the Bomb rating.
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Its not that bad... I lead this and kept thinking 5.4 my kids should be able to climb 5.4 with that in mind I give this a 5.6 because there are some tricky stems and jams up top. Also you need some big pieces to protect that top section if you feel you need to. There are anchors on top of the adjacent climbs.
By Edubs
Nov 2, 2015

There are bolts up and to the right, at the top of Fluff Boy, that can be used to rappel.
By Royce Robertson
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 23, 2016

This historic day marked the second B4 (see, the formation of the ABCA (American Beer Climbing Association) and two new board members Rich and Gina Barrera (in addition to founders Royce Robertson and Will Casolara)!
By Royce Robertson
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 23, 2016

Just as a note, as a new leader, I found this route to be a little awkward like others mentioned and not particularly easy to protect but by no means a difficult beginner lead. It can easily be climbed one handed on top rope ;)

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