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Mad Knowledge of Self 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B Branscomb M Vogel 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Nov 2, 2010

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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Face along a crystally ramp until beneath the ominous looking hanging flake. Amazingly it is only about 5.7 to lieback onto this thing. Proceed up the corner to the roof. Go left around to a Half Dollar flake, then traverse more left and slightely up to a thin right facing flake. You can place a TCU in the Half Dollar, but runner it good and be sure the rope doesn't run around the bottom of the flake when you get higher, or it will jam. Go straight up past bolts (10b) to the anchor. The second pitch goes straight up 10c dime edging to a low angle area. Go straight up to the right hand chimney and climb this (5.4) to a ledge with a Fixx anchor set.

Location 

On the right side of the alcove, bolts lead out left on a little ramp on crystally granite, below an ominous looking hanging flake. Rappel route (2-30m rappels from the rim) from Fixx anchor sets.

Protection 

Bolts, #1 Metolius TCU, camlots 0.4 to 2.0.


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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 6, 2016

Getting to the first bolt may be problematic if you are not tall (did something fall off?) The crystalline rock is bad so consider clipping the first bolt while lowering off a neighboring route. Rest of the first pitch is great and the start of the 2nd pitch is superb! Easy scramble to the summit from the top of the second pitch.

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