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Mad Hatter, The 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Swain and Dick Peterson, November 1989
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jun 24, 2011

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Description 

Pitch 1 (5.10B) is sustained thin face climbing, protected by four bolts. The crux is a short headwall at the top of the pitch. Pitch 2 (5.9) follows a steep arete. You can get good protection with RPs and stoppers. To descend, scramble down a bit and rappel off the back side. There is another Mad Hatter climb in Joshua Tree, on Hunk Rock near Barker Dam.

Location 

This is on the right side of the southwest face, to the right of the long dike of Mental Bankruptcy, and to the right of the chimney where Fantasia starts.

Protection 

standard rack, with four bolts on the first pitch


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