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Freeloader Friday S 
Hollywood Tim S 
Hueco Pareidolia S 
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Sponge Problem, The 

Mad Dogs and Englishmen 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John O'Donnell
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Mad Dogs and Englishmen


Another good route on the Sponge. Shares a start with Hollywood Tim and then moves left through a small roof/bulge (crux) to easier terrain to the anchors above.


Start the same as Hollywood Tim clipping the first two bolts of Hollywood Tim but then go slighty left through the small roof clipping four more bolts en route to the anchors.


5 bolts to chain anchor

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By Scott Beguin
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jul 15, 2008

FA: John O'Donnell.
By kinz Davis
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 29, 2015

Third bolt on this rig looked a bit suspect. Bolt protruding some and nut was right up at the end of the threads... couldnt tighten it back by hand. Looks like it needs to be replaced and even moved considering the angle at which it was placed with respect to direction of fall. Happy to put in the work but I dont have a drill at the moment.
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 25, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The left-hand cold shut of Hollywood Tim has got worn down due to the wear of the top-roping of Mad Dogs, and Pumping Harry. To mitigate this, and to provide a better all-round experience, Luke installed independent anchors for Pumping Harry a few weeks ago, and I installed an independent chain anchor with lowering biners for Mad Dogs today.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 26, 2016

So very civilized to have independent anchors on all these routes. Thanks for the upgrades Owen and Luke. It's a great little wall with fun, featured climbing and it's nice to see the area getting some hardware maintenance.

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