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Mad Dogs and Edgingmen 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Long & Jim Wilson
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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M. Stewart. Photo: Duncan Laing 1984.


Go about 15-20 feet up The Escalator and climb out onto the rounded face to the right (could be called an arete). A bolt with a 5.9 move leads to another bolt protecting the crux move. Very average.


2 bolts and gear for the belay (when we did it)

Photos of Mad Dogs and Edgingmen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mad Dogs and Edgingmen (5.10a) follows the edge of...
BETA PHOTO: Mad Dogs and Edgingmen (5.10a) follows the edge of...

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By C Miller
From: CA
Sep 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A few pieces of gear to supplement the bolts is a good idea - a 1.5" and/or a 2.5" piece where the route breaks away from The Escalator and a 1.5" piece in a short left-facing flake between the two bolts should do it.
By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 10, 2008

A play on the line by Noel Coward which read "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun!"
By Nick Barczak
May 22, 2009

Not a bad climb at all. However, beware that as of 5.17.2009 the first bolt is the original 1/4" complete with rusty Leeper hanger. Also the second bolt looked to be a botched replacement and was bent.
By Nick ANgelillo
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 30, 2013

Does anyone Know if the bolts have been replaced?
By dnaiscool
Mar 24, 2015

I thought this little gem was terrific, and it sounds as though it would be a good idea to get out the drill and pop in some new bolts. My pro in order from the base: #2 TCU in opening 5.7 move; 1-2" pro before stepping out on to the face; bolt; .5 Tricam (pink, of course, do use Tricams...?); crux Bolt (this is a soft .10- move); dbl. #2 TCU + #2 Camalot on first nice ledge in the Escalator. Then solo up to the rap tree.
This is a fun route to bang out and hit a ten-route tick list that takes very little hiking and has a lot of variety. Leave one rope hanging on the rap to facilitate TRs or a quick return for more leads in this immediate area.
By Nick ANgelillo
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 17, 2015

Its got 2 brand spank'n new bolts!

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