REI Community
(o) Right of the Escalator
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Axe of God T 
B.S. Arch T 
Breeze, The T 
Bullocks T 
Flatman Chimney T 
Free Lance T 
Hair Lip T 
Hair Pie T 
Hot Buttered Rump T 
Jackal, The T 
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 
Philocetes' Bow T 
Poppycock Arch T 
Shadow, The T 

Mad Dogs and Edgingmen 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Long & Jim Wilson
Page Views: 129
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
M. Stewart. Photo: Duncan Laing 1984.

Description 

Go about 15-20 feet up The Escalator and climb out onto the rounded face to the right (could be called an arete). A bolt with a 5.9 move leads to another bolt protecting the crux move. Very average.

Protection 

2 bolts and gear for the belay (when we did it)


Photos of Mad Dogs and Edgingmen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mad Dogs and Edgingmen (5.10a) follows the edge of...
BETA PHOTO: Mad Dogs and Edgingmen (5.10a) follows the edge of...

Comments on Mad Dogs and Edgingmen Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Sep 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A few pieces of gear to supplement the bolts is a good idea - a 1.5" and/or a 2.5" piece where the route breaks away from The Escalator and a 1.5" piece in a short left-facing flake between the two bolts should do it.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 10, 2008

A play on the line by Noel Coward which read "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun!"
By Nick Barczak
May 22, 2009

Not a bad climb at all. However, beware that as of 5.17.2009 the first bolt is the original 1/4" complete with rusty Leeper hanger. Also the second bolt looked to be a botched replacement and was bent.
By Nick ANgelillo
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 30, 2013

Does anyone Know if the bolts have been replaced?
By dnaiscool
Mar 24, 2015

I thought this little gem was terrific, and it sounds as though it would be a good idea to get out the drill and pop in some new bolts. My pro in order from the base: #2 TCU in opening 5.7 move; 1-2" pro before stepping out on to the face; bolt; .5 Tricam (pink one...you, of course, do use Tricams...?); crux Bolt (this is a soft .10- move); dbl. #2 TCU + #2 Camalot on first nice ledge in the Escalator. Then solo up to the rap tree.
This is a fun route to bang out and hit a ten-route tick list that takes very little hiking and has a lot of variety. Leave one rope hanging on the rap to facilitate TRs or a quick return for more leads in this immediate area.
By Nick ANgelillo
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 17, 2015

Its got 2 brand spank'n new bolts!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About