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Mad Cow 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ian Harris, Jessica Jelacic, Marta Reece, Summer 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jun 15, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 as seen from the top of Monkeypox.


This is a new, harder and cleaner, version. It offers a solid rock and good climbing, with finicky enough pro on the crux to keep you checking just how crazy you are, before it hands you the perfect pocket to keep you in the game.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 170 feet) Step onto the left side of the chimney that splits the wall down the middle. Move left onto an indistinct ledge, then continue slightly leftward toward the left end of a short, horizontal line of small bushes above. Once past the bushes, go right a bit, then up. With the steep part done, you will see a broad head wall interrupted by two apparent gullies. Take whatever route is convenient (we went left a bit and then sharply right) to the the base of the left one.

Pitch 2: (5.8, 80 feet) Go up the steep, almost perfectly straight trough above. At the top turn right to find a good belay spot on the easy slab.


Mad Cow starts to the left of the base of the chimney which slashes Zoonotic in two. Walk off from the top toward the Citadel canyon as for Cowpox. The top of the walk-off is marked with a cairn.


Standard rack.

Photos of Mad Cow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mad Cow route. We did the top, right-traverse port...
BETA PHOTO: Mad Cow route. We did the top, right-traverse port...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jes at the start of the route.
Jes at the start of the route.

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By Ian Harris
From: Las Cruces NM
Aug 4, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route has fun moves on decent rock and "interesting" gear. I recommend bringing micro cams and small brass nuts.

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