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Mad Cow 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Kelly Brown
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Mar 16, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

An exciting route with hero roof climbing down low and a challenging headwall above.

Scramble up to a horizontal break just below the roof, make a long move to a big pocket, jump for the jug flake and burl over the roof to better holds. Once over the roof, rest up on decent holds below the next roof. Reach over the roof and work right along slopey pods. Make a big lock off to a three finger pocket and keep trending left on better holds to a couple of acceptable rest holds. Bear down on a few bad holds and enjoy a some jugs before clipping the chains.

This route has excellent rock and very engaging moves. However, it lacks the length and aesthetics to earn 4 stars. Hard for the grade.

Also, this route tends to stay dry when other routes are seeping.

Location 

Left of Undertow.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners. Will need a very long stick clip to reach the first bolt.

Beware of a fall before the first bolt! There is potential to pendulum into the large boulder behind the route.


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