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Mad Cow Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anthrax Letters S 
Bandit S 
Big Daddy S 
Black Plague S 
Bubbles S 
Chuckwagon S 
Cutter S 
Die Hardral S 
Ebola S 
John Waynes Knee S 
Mad Cow S 
Rabid Dale S 
Rabid Dave S 
Rattlesnake S 
Rawhide S 
Shakka S 
Unknown 5.12b S 
Unknown 5.12b (2) S 
West Wasn't Won on Salad S 

Mad Cow Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 32.2357, -104.7528 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,563
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
Forecast:
Today

65° | 41°
Wednesday

57° | 39°
Thursday

70° | 47°
Friday

74° | 44°
Saturday

64° | 42°
Sunday

64° | 44°
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Drew Cumming sending Peacemaker 12d

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Mad Cow Wall is arguably the best cliff at LCC, and certainly the best chunk of limestone in New Mexico. The wall stretches for several hundred yards, featuring loads of stellar lines. Routes range in steepness from just past vertical, up to "very steep", and tend to be longer than the routes at other LCC cliffs. Visiting hardmen will want to take a stab at the stunning double black streak of "Black Plague". However, this cliff really shines in the lower 5.12 grades.

This wall faces Northeast. However, unlike the Violence Wall, Mad Cow receives virtually no sun in the winter. It is possible to climb here in the dead of winter (on the right day), but it may be pretty chilly.

Getting There 

From the Violence Wall, continue SE along the cliff base past a large cave (I assume this is the "Hermit Cave", which is off-limits to climbing) with several interesting artifacts. The first few routes ascend super steep orange tiers. To get oriented, find the right-leaning, overhanging bolted dihedral of "The West Wasn't Won on A Salad".

Routes 

Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers RIGHT TO LEFT (Thanks DTP!).

(01) Bubbles (5.13b) - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
(02) Bandit (5.12c/13a) - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
(03) John Waynes Knee (5.12d/13a) - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
(04) Rawhide (5.12c) - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
(05) Chuckwagon (5.12c) - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
(06) West Wasn't Won on Salad (5.12a) - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
(07) Peacemaker (5.12d) - Rumored to have broken
(08) Unknown (5.12b)
(09) Rattlesnake (5.11b) - Hard start to easier finish
(10) Rabid Dale (5.12b) - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
(11) Unknown (5.12b)
(12) Black Plague (5.13b) - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
(13) Big Daddy (5.12d) - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
(14) Rabid Dave (5.12b) - Great route on stellar rock.
(15) Die Hardral (5.12a) - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
(16) Shakka (5.11c) - Easier climbing on thin crimps
(17) Cutter (5.11c) - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
(18) Mad Cow (5.12b) - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
(19) Anthrax Letters (5.12d) - Hard Start to easier climbing?
(20) Ebola (5.13a) - Harder Start to easier climbing?

Climbing Season

For the Last Chance Canyon area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',12],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mad Cow Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mad Cow Wall:
Cutter   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   
West Wasn't Won on Salad   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Rabid Dave   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Mad Cow   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 60'   
Rawhide   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   
Chuckwagon   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   
Bandit   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 45'   
John Waynes Knee   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   
Ebola   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 55'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mad Cow Wall

Featured Route For Mad Cow Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: The excellent unknown route on the far right end o...

Bubbles 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : ... : Mad Cow Wall
One of the best hard routes at LCC, and perhaps one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, featuring 5-star limestone, thought-provoking moves, a significant pump-factor and powerful cranks that don't let up till you clip the chains. Begin 20 feet left of the Hermit's Cave. Fortunately this route's position avoids the culturally sensitive area to the right. Slopey pockets head up and right for two bolts, to a difficult sequence moving past the third bolt and a decent shake on interesting hol...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Mad Cow Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The right end of the Mad Cow Wall.  Routes 1 & 2 a...
The right end of the Mad Cow Wall. Routes 1 & 2 a...
Rock Climbing Photo: The left end of the Mad Cow Wall.  The right edge ...
The left end of the Mad Cow Wall. The right edge ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of (most of) the Mad Cow Wall.
Overview of (most of) the Mad Cow Wall.

Comments on Mad Cow Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Sep 8, 2009
Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers right to left.

01 Bubbles 5.13b - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
02 Bandit 5.12c/13a - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
03 John Waynes Knee 5.12d/13a - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
04 Rawhide 5.12c - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
05 ChuckWagon 5.12c - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
06 The West Wasn't Won on a Salad 5.12a - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
07 Peacemaker 5.12d - Rumored to have broken
08 Unknown 5.12b
09 Rattlesnake 5.11b - Hard start to easier finish
10 Rabid Dale 5.12b - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
11 Unknown 5.12b
12 Black Plague 5.13b - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
13 Big Daddy 5.12d - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
14 Rabid Dave 5.12b - Great route on stellar rock.
15 Die Hardral 5.12a - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
16 Shakka 5.11c - Easier climbing on thin crimps
17 Cutter 5.11c - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
18 Mad Cow 5.12b - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
19 Anthrax Letters 5.12d - Hard Start to easier climbing?
20 Ebola 5.13a - Harder Start to easier climbing?

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