Mad Cow Wall Rock Climbing
Drew Cumming sending Peacemaker 12d
|Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>|
The Mad Cow Wall is arguably the best cliff at LCC, and certainly the best chunk of limestone in New Mexico. The wall stretches for several hundred yards, featuring loads of stellar lines. Routes range in steepness from just past vertical, up to "very steep", and tend to be longer than the routes at other LCC cliffs. Visiting hardmen will want to take a stab at the stunning double black streak of "Black Plague". However, this cliff really shines in the lower 5.12 grades.
This wall faces Northeast. However, unlike the Violence Wall, Mad Cow receives virtually no sun in the winter. It is possible to climb here in the dead of winter (on the right day), but it may be pretty chilly.
From the Violence Wall, continue SE along the cliff base past a large cave (I assume this is the "Hermit Cave", which is off-limits to climbing) with several interesting artifacts. The first few routes ascend super steep orange tiers. To get oriented, find the right-leaning, overhanging bolted dihedral of "The West Wasn't Won on A Salad".
Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers RIGHT TO LEFT (Thanks DTP!).
(5.13b) - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
(02) Bandit (5.12c/13a) - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
(03) John Waynes Knee (5.12d/13a) - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
(5.12c) - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
(5.12c) - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
(06) West Wasn't Won on Salad
(5.12a) - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
(07) Peacemaker (5.12d) - Rumored to have broken
(08) Unknown (5.12b)
(5.11b) - Hard start to easier finish
(10) Rabid Dale
(5.12b) - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
(11) Unknown (5.12b)
(12) Black Plague
(5.13b) - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
(13) Big Daddy
(5.12d) - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
(14) Rabid Dave
(5.12b) - Great route on stellar rock.
(15) Die Hardral
(5.12a) - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
(5.11c) - Easier climbing on thin crimps
(5.11c) - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
(18) Mad Cow
(5.12b) - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
(19) Anthrax Letters (5.12d) - Hard Start to easier climbing?
(20) Ebola (5.13a) - Harder Start to easier climbing?
Climbing Season For the Last Chance Canyon area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mad Cow Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mad Cow Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mad Cow Wall:
Cutter 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 60'
Mad Cow 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 60'
Rawhide 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 60'
Ebola 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 55'
Featured Route For Mad Cow Wall
Black Plague 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c NM
: New Mexico, other Southern ...
: ... : Mad Cow Wall
Black Plague is one of the best 5.13s in Southern New Mexico. The line ascends a stunningly beautiful pair of black streaks, up a gentle overhang with technical, powerful moves. The route is notorious for the double mono crux at the second bolt, where strong fingers are helpful, but impeccable movement can reduce the tweak factor significantly. Above the monos the holds stay small, but less tweaky. The route snakes right, left, and back right between the black streaks, before surmounting the...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
The right end of the Mad Cow Wall. Routes 1 & 2 a...
The left end of the Mad Cow Wall. The right edge ...
Overview of (most of) the Mad Cow Wall.
From: Denver, CO
Sep 8, 2009
Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers right to left.
01 Bubbles 5.13b - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
02 Bandit 5.12c/13a - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
03 John Waynes Knee 5.12d/13a - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
04 Rawhide 5.12c - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
05 ChuckWagon 5.12c - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
06 The West Wasn't Won on a Salad 5.12a - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
07 Peacemaker 5.12d - Rumored to have broken
08 Unknown 5.12b
09 Rattlesnake 5.11b - Hard start to easier finish
10 Rabid Dale 5.12b - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
11 Unknown 5.12b
12 Black Plague 5.13b - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
13 Big Daddy 5.12d - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
14 Rabid Dave 5.12b - Great route on stellar rock.
15 Die Hardral 5.12a - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
16 Shakka 5.11c - Easier climbing on thin crimps
17 Cutter 5.11c - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
18 Mad Cow 5.12b - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
19 Anthrax Letters 5.12d - Hard Start to easier climbing?
20 Ebola 5.13a - Harder Start to easier climbing?