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Macuchi 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 990'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 104
Submitted By: Trotamundos Vila on Apr 17, 2017

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Description 

Equipped from below by a group of Mexicans from Mexico City. The route has 6 pitches of more than 50 meters each. The climbing is very varied with dihedral, pockets and crimp.

The third pitch is the key, it is a roof that surrounds to the right full of pockets and fragile steps, in this pitch it is comvenient to use quickdraws of 60 cm to avoid as much friction as possible, it is also important to point out that this pitch is very Well protected. In the following pitches the protections can be found a little spaced.

Important: in the last pitch, there is a lot of friction is preferable to reach the big ledge, protect the next two protections and recover the second until reach the big ledge and continue, this makes a big difference otherwise it is almost impossible move along because the friction.

In spring the sun gives to the wall almost all the day, although one can rest a little of the sun of the fourth reunion onwards. It is advisable to take sun block and 2 to 3 liters of water per person.

Equipment required: 70 meters rope, 24 quickdraws ( 4 to 5, 60 cm quickdraws for less friction),helmet and headlamp.

With a solid grade of 5.12 you can reach the top in about 4 hours, for slower chordates it will take around 7 to 10 hours.

Location 

Access: In basaseachi walk to the viewpoint of the waterfall, cross the metal bridge to the left and follow the path that goes down to the base of the waterfall, cross the river and continue uphill through the pine forest. It is easy to locate the route, from the base of the waterfall locate the roof of the route and walk towards that direction, you will find in the first protections blue ribbons. (Estimated time of approach from the parking lot: 1hour)

Descent: After the last pitch it is necessary to make a crossing towards the right (class 4thrd), for greater security it can be protected of small trees and finally of a great tree to protect to the second. Then it is necessary to walk up rocky terrain and turn slightly to the right (be careful not to get too close to the cliff) and start descending on rocky terrain until you reach the viewpoint of the waterfall.

Rappel: If you need rappelling to go down it is necessary to carry two ropes because the pitches are more than 50 meters.

Protection 

Sport route, all the pitches are bolted


Photos of Macuchi Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: macuchi_2
macuchi_2
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 3
pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Macuchi_1
Macuchi_1
Rock Climbing Photo: Macuchi by Carlos García
BETA PHOTO: Macuchi by Carlos García
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo by Carlos García
BETA PHOTO: Topo by Carlos García

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