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The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
D.A.'s Route T 
Dialysis Bag T 
Direct North Face T,TR 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  T 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
Diversion T 
East Bench Dihedral T 
Inset, The T 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 
Macropsychotic T 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Northeast Chimney T 
Northeast Corner T 
Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
Pizza Pie Crack T 
Red Gully, The T,TR 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T,TR 
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 


YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a Hueco: V-easy Font: 3

Type:  Trad, Boulder, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a Hueco: V-easy Font: 3 [details]
FA: unknown, long ago
Season: any
Page Views: 2,096
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Shortcut, 5.4. Macropsychotic, 5.5.

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  • Description 

    This climb is a good route on solid rock. Nice in-cut edges appear one after the other, and a crack offers very good pro at a relatively safe distance from the ground if you are leading. Climb up the face to reach a 1.5 meter section of crack 6m off of the ground. The crack goes from thin to fists over it's length and is the distinguishing feature of the route.
    After passing the crack, cling and edge your way up the arete just to the right on solid positive holds until the rock becomes jumbled and broken, then head in on a ledge and finish up the gap/slot/chimney between the Ginseng Pillar and the 2nd Pinnacle. Good route on good rock.


    From the west side of the West bench, continue south through a gap in the rock behind the Ginseng Pillar. Go down and right (south) a few meters, keeping your eye 7 meters up the West Face of the 2nd Pinnacle, looking for a distinguishing split block with a crack in it. The route starts below, goes through, and finishes above this obvious crack.


    A light standard rack with a few nuts and cams hand-to-fist... I think. I didn't place gear though, as the climb is a good solo (even in approach shoes).

    Photos of Macropsychotic Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shortcut, 5.4. Macropsychotic, 5.5.
    BETA PHOTO: Shortcut, 5.4. Macropsychotic, 5.5.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The boulder with the widening crack
    BETA PHOTO: The boulder with the widening crack

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