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Macondo 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jerry Dodrill 2010
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Ed Henicle on May 10, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Kevin Radle climbing the start of Macondo.

Description 

This was the first route bolted at the cliff and features excellent moderate climbing on rock which is amazingly granite-like for volcanic tuff. After climbing the initial slab face the route steepens through some classic features on a tower before topping out on a rocky promontory with a commanding view of Kimball Canyon Crag and the Black Tower below. Anchors can be accessed by carefully climbing down from the top of the cliff 15 feet above.

Protection 

6 bolts


Photos of Macondo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Taylor leading Macondo 5.10a on 17 November...
Andrew Taylor leading Macondo 5.10a on 17 November...

Comments on Macondo Add Comment
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By Floyd Hayes
May 11, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Two of us led this and a third climber top-roped it in November 2013. Before reaching the first bolt, I pulled off a cantaloupe-sized rock that fell 15 feet and grazed the arm of a partner, Andrew Taylor, while he was shooting video.
Rock Climbing Photo: Screen shot from video by Andrew Taylor of Floyd H...
Screen shot from video by Andrew Taylor of Floyd Hayes accidentally pulling off a large rock on Macondo.
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
May 23, 2016

^^^ Glad you guys are ok!

Love the balancey moves on this route. The height of the first bolt adds a little spice, but great pro after that. Jug holds appear just when you need them.

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