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Macondo Cliff

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Macondo Cliff Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.65407, -122.61897 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,575
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ed Henicle on May 8, 2016
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A remote cliff high on the ridge above the Far Side - follow trail above Kola

These routes were put up while the Deep Water Horizon oil rig was spewing in the Gulf of Mexico. The sea floor area where it sank was ironically called the Macondo Tract. Macondo was the fictitious name of the obscure, ill-fated town whose story is detailed in Gabriel Garcia Marquez's pulitzer prize winning book "One Hundred Years of Solitude." Because the crag is so remote, has loose rock and seemed destined for obscurity, Macondo seemed a most appropriate name at the time.

Getting There 

Take a direct line from the summit of Kola (top of Far Side) directly toward the South Summit. This trail begins on the saddle just beyond the walk off option of Kola.
Climb a steep 3rd class gully which leads to a trail which switchbacks up the ridge for 500 yards (15 minutes). The trail passes through some fallen pine trees eventually merging with the right (downhill side) of the Macondo Cliff formation. From there it is possible to access the base area, or by going right and up, the summit area.

Approach time is about 1 hour 15 min from car

From the top of the Macondo cliff the trail continues upward for another 500 yards to the south summit area and a branch of the fire road.

Climbing Season

For the Mount St. Helena area.

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Macondo Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Macondo Cliff:
Macondo   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 85'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Macondo Cliff

Featured Route For Macondo Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Utopia - entering the crux zone

Utopia 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Macondo Cliff
Climb a run out section past 3 bolts through some unlikely features on a broken Orange and Red rock face. Continue to climb above the fourth bolt mantling on to a sloping ramp. Continue up and right to a stance where the 5th bolt can be reached. Chain anchor is another 15 feet past the last bolt just right of the arête....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Macondo Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: January sunset
January sunset

Comments on Macondo Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Floyd Hayes
May 11, 2016
I climbed here with two partners in November 2013. We only had time to lead two routes and we top-roped a third. On each route we knocked off several baseball-to-canteloupe sized rocks that had to be dodged by the two of us below, so it's a potentially dangerous place to climb.
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
May 11, 2016
yes - lots of loose rock here still, so wear a helmet and be careful. A beautiful spot high on the Kimball Canyon ridge.

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