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Mack T 
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Mack 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 275'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: T. and P.
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Spring
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: sean peters on Apr 12, 2015

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch one contains the crux. Some questionable rock and a bulge. The pitch is about 150 feet, has a bit of lichen at the start, loose rock midway and near the belay. Pitch two (125 feet) follows crack system along an increasingly narrowing ledge with a short boulder problem near the beginning. Nice views into the big chimney/slot.

Location 

In between the two obvious chimney systems there is hand to finger sized crack that is easily accessed from the sloping rope-up spot. The crack tends to angle right and goes through a short, mini roof. The first pitch ends just after the roof. Also, two distinctly lighter shades of rock can be noticed on the approach, the route stays to the left of these.
Descend off the slightly lower east side of the formation. One rope and two rappels (two rap stations) places you at the base and 10 minutes from your packs.
You might be able to walk off the formation (south side) but will have a thrash getting back to the packs.

Protection 

We used finger sized cams up to #5. The #5 is optional but can be used on either pitch if wanted. Nuts were also useful on both pitches. One piton at our original first belay, a better belay can be found twenty feet higher.


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