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Macita 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 [details]
FA: Tim Coats, Larry Coats, Jim Haisley, Karl Karlstrom- early 80s
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Oct 23, 2010

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Karl Karlstom finally giving in and aiding the off...

Description 

Macita was another long-standing virgin summit in the Sedona backcountry that eventually was climbed, but not in the all-free style that was envisioned. Continuous cracks split the south side of the tower, but some frustrating sections prevented free climbing the entire route.

Pitch 1: Start in the notch by climbing cracks between the main wall and a short sub-tower to the south (5.10). This pitch ends on a good ledge at the top of the sub-tower.

Pitch 2: Delicate face climbing on small RP-sized nuts leads off the ledge and into a more secure crack above. Stemming and finger jams lead upward to a blank plaque of rock where the crack arches right. Surmount this section with two moves of aid on fixed angles (C1). From a small ledge at the end of the arching crack the beautiful, splitter hand crack begins. Follow it upward through a few wide-hands pods to reach the belay ledge at the base of the offwidth (5.10). Belay on two bolts.

Pitch 3: Climb the looming offwidth above via aid bolts along the left side (C1). We hoped to free climb this pitch, but even with wide-crack master Karl Karlstrom along we couldn't do it. The crack is a horrible width, overhangs, and leans fiercely to the left until being capped by a wobbly chockstone, and just didn't seem to relent to any application of techniques. I'm still convinced it could be free climbed, but at a standard above that of the rest of the route.

Protection 

Typical Sedona rack, including RPs, lots of hand-sized cams, and a few wider pieces.


Photos of Macita Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Coats topping out on the second pitch hand cra...
Tim Coats topping out on the second pitch hand cra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of Baxter on the magnificent second p...
Another shot of Baxter on the magnificent second p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Haisley on the lower section of pitch 2- he ha...
Jim Haisley on the lower section of pitch 2- he ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Baxter and Al Doty on the ledge at the end o...
BETA PHOTO: Scott Baxter and Al Doty on the ledge at the end o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Baxter on the second pitch hand crack of Mac...
Scott Baxter on the second pitch hand crack of Mac...

Comments on Macita Add Comment
Show which comments
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Feb 1, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1 PG13

CONDITION REPORT 
thx Eva for the rap anchor,
tat in good condition on this date. Bitch of an approach but a great adventure on mostly good rock.
1st pitch starts on the west side of the sub-tower 5.10 fingers to fists.
Spicy start to the 2nd pitch- one bolt is nice but too low to keep you off the deck- a second one would really give you some confidence as the shitty RPs are good enough for body weight but I doubt they'd take a fall, then burly hands to ow splitter!
3rd pitch gaping OW: wish I'd brought the #6 but it may have been too small!! 3 drilled pins (one is shallow- tie it off close!) then as you commit to the final crux you have a large flake siting in the crack I placed a red and blue camalot on either side of it and equalized it in situ (it would have been better to do so with a large hex) Still committing to move past.
Gear recommendation: Double set to #4 with triples of #2 & #3. Single #5 & #6, small nuts and at least one large hex. 2 60M's
By Zach Harrison
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13

This is a pretty little summit, pitch 2 is worth the hike. As of March 2013 , only 1 pin on the 2nd pitch traverse, and wobbly chockstone is quite terrifying on pitch 3. If your going to the top, have your senses up, in my opinion that block belongs on the ground. There is a chain anchor at the end of the second pitch, but its ~130' to the ground, I don't think a 70M would make it. The summit features a rap station off of a spindly tree, and requires 2 70M to make the ground.
By Eva Christ
Feb 21, 2016

We added two bolt anchor just below the summit. No more crappy tree rappel. Bring tat and two sixty meter ropes, which will bring you to the ground in one rappel. Feb 16. Second pitch is wow!

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