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Macho Man 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Greg Schooley 1979
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 720
Submitted By: Stan Jones on Apr 8, 2010

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Follow the large overlap to the large huecos and belay in the lower hueco for P1. P1 crux is about 3/4 of the way along the pitch as you work back left to the lower hueco at the end of the pitch (5.7). Look for high hands as you traverse left. P1 is about 100’ long. P2 begins in the crack above the upper hueco. P2 crux is stemming above the upper hueco at the beginning of P2 (5.7). Top of P2 is about 80’ above the P1 belay.


From the base of the Sea of Screams wall, follow the ramps up and right past the South America wall to a spot 75’ below a huge pair of huecos (one atop the other) at the end of a right-to-left trending overlap. The bolted water streak that goes directly up the slab to the huecos is the climb “Field Direct.” Start Macho Man by climbing the ramps/face leading up and right to the overlap.
From the ledge at the top of P2, move left 30’ to the Power Grip/Saturn anchors to rap 80 feet to the intermediate rap station, then another 140 feet to the base of the wall (two ropes or 70m with a down-climb).


Everything from small nuts to large cams (#4 camalot under the overlap just after the P1 crux before the final move into the hueco). No anchors.

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