REI Community
High Wire Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5th of July S 
Ace in the Hole S 
Bouncer S 
Bypass S 
Contrarian, The T 
Cracker Jack S 
Deuces Wild S 
Everyday Struggle S 
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 
Full House S 
Ghetto Activity S 
Ghetto Head S 
Head Up Activity S 
Head Up Dirty S 
Hip at the Lip S 
Idiot Savant S 
Idiot's Roof T 
Indirect Savant S 
Jackpot S 
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 
Life After Death S 
Machine Gun Funk S 
Moderate Dihedral T 
Nickels and Dimes S 
Notorious S 
Overpass S,TR 
Passing Lane S 
People's Choice S 
Poker Face S,TR 
Pony Up S 
Power Play T,S 
Road Kill S 
Road Rash Roof S 
Road Warrior S 
Savage, The S 
Slot Machine S 
Stone Cold Moderate S 
Via Comatose Amigo S 
Wild Card S 

Machine Gun Funk 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Matt Lloyd, bolted with help of Keith North and Jose Rodriguez
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,839
Submitted By: mlloyd on Apr 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb the giant roof that is visible from the road. Start with excellent 5.11a climbing to a rest at the roof, then bust a creative, upside down, V7 boulder problem out the 15 foot roof to gain a sweet hand wrap and a jug at the lip. Climb easy terrain to the anchors 15 feet above. FYI, there are no bolts above the lip leading to the anchors (there are anchors), I may go back and add some bolts later if people insist. The fall is safe.

The routes grade may be quite subjective, if you love swinging on strap holds, this thing could be a bit on the easier side. Either way, I enjoyed putting it up, so enjoy climbing it.


This is the line busting through the roof, it is pretty easy to find. Use the same approach as Idiot's Roof but one route to the right (shares the first bolt).


11 QDs.

Photos of Machine Gun Funk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben sending.  Photo: Keith North.
Ben sending. Photo: Keith North.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just exiting the crux on the FA.
Just exiting the crux on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: An overview of the route.
An overview of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Machine Gun Funk.
Machine Gun Funk.
Rock Climbing Photo: Juan climbing the juggy overhanging bottom section...
Juan climbing the juggy overhanging bottom section...

Comments on Machine Gun Funk Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 19, 2016
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Apr 18, 2012

Hell ya Matt, nice work, man! Can't wait to get up there and check this one out! Nice to see others putting up some routes in the canyon as well, we all appreciate it.
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Do it.... Route is Awesome!
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

This line is so good, well bolted, gymnastic, and STEEP! A classic for CCC in my opinion... thanks for the work, guys.
By mlloyd
From: denver
Sep 21, 2012

Steve, I'm psyched you liked it. Thanks for the props. Nice work!
By Jeremy Jennings
Sep 27, 2012

So did you change the name to Machine Gun Disco, or did you change it to Machine Gun Funk?
By mlloyd
From: denver
Sep 27, 2012

No, I'm just an idiot and just said the name wrong once, and it stuck.... Damn PBR, the name of the route is Machine Gun Funk, Machine Gun Disco (I didn't know at the time... is a 12 in Indian Creek).
By Tyler Fox
Feb 7, 2013

This is a really fun route. Get psyched to get creative on the roof; however, don't fall past the lip. If you pull through the roof, you definitely shouldn't fall on the juggy face, but my partner decided it would be fun to jump and managed to violently swing into the wall - just a head's up. Also, plan for a little rope drag - bring some extendables. Other than that, this things super safe and super rad!
By Mason Caiby
Feb 8, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I think this is the coolest route at the High Wire crag. Definitely a cool problem through the roof. I think it might be soft for the grade, but I've never been good at grades. Also, there's a lot of loose rock/choss (sp?), so you're belay better be ready for some projectiles.

Sick line, sick moves.
By Cassidy Hill
Apr 12, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Some holds have broken out the roof on this climb. The key undercling is gone, leaving a flat, "nub" type hold. This is still useable but notably harder. Unfortunately though, the key right hand crimp towards the lip of the roof is gone, and that left nothing in its place. The climb may still go but not the way I was doing it/have seen it done and probably not at 12d.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jul 30, 2013

This is a great route that is cleaning up nicely. I can't imagine anything else breaking off in the roof. Definitely not soft for the grade anymore.
By D B
From: Denver
Mar 26, 2015

Feels like a stout 13a with the broken holds. Good luck if you don't have a long wingspan!
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I'm sure there are various ways to climb through the boulder problem at the roof, but I found some beta that I haven't seen anyone in these pics using. If you're stuck and want to try something different, then PM me.

Great route, Matt! One of the better 13a's in the canyon for sure.
By Aaron Ramras
Jul 14, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I also found alternative beta to what is shown in the photos, and I believe it made the climbing significantly easier...however, the right hand I used was horribly sharp, and the crux was getting my fingers out of the hold without leaving any behind. My sequence was far too painful to be any fun, and my right pointer finger is still numb two days later. Maybe the sequence shown in the photos makes the route harder and more aesthetic?
By Derek Young
From: Denver, CO
Feb 13, 2016

Worked this some more today with DPug. We're getting really close and amped to take this thing down soon. Thanks so much for putting this line up, Matt!

Condition update:
- Roof draws: the draws in the roof were hosting some badly worn biners (bolt and rope sides), so we swapped a bunch of them out. I donated some decent BD wires to the cause and freshen things up. The dogbones looked absolutely fine. So, to whoever left draws on the roof bolts - THANK YOU! - and if you'd like the biners we took down, please PM me and I'd be happy to give them to you.

- Bolt #2 in the roof hosted a semi-loose hanger. We checked the bolt, and it was solid. The hanger just moves.

All else looked great.
By Mike Drinker
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
May 19, 2016

Replaced the hanger side biner at the lip of the crux yesterday. It was getting pretty gnarly looking. Enjoy.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About