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The Speed Trap
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Mach 5 S 
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Speed Trap S 

Mach 5 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Laney & Brent Christianson
Page Views: 989
Submitted By: Boissal on Jun 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Tenesmus well beyond the sound barrier.

How to find and climb this pile: 

This route shares its start with Neon Leon: scamper up a low angle slab and mantle the stacked blocks, carefully avoiding a large pile of guano and trying not to dent your head.

Clip the first two bolts (the 2nd one is a ways to the left of the line, don't get dragged too far that way) and head up and right following an obvious line of crimps and sidepulls.
Around the 4th bolt the holds dwindle, forcing you to reach left for the arete and a series of sidepulls.
A touchy moves brings you back on the face and the 5th bolt, then some decent edges to the left put you within clipping distance of the chains.

Looks like you could go straight up from the 5th bolt to the anchor using a slopy edge to stand into a shallow undercling (!!), a sequence that looked way harder than .11d and that you might be too pumped to consider...

What keeps you off the deck: 

5 bolts, the first 2 shared with Neon Leon and Speed Trap. A long draw on the 1st bolt will let the rope run fairly straight.
Bolt 3 is a spinner but looks fairly decent still.
Chain anchors at the top.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Mike keeping chill...
Mike keeping chill...

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By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jul 10, 2009

Tried to tighten bolt 3 this morning. It wasn't budging...
By tenesmus
Aug 11, 2010

It seems the standard way to do this is to clip the second bolt and then immediately unclip the first before moving up to the next one. It takes away that rope drag and your still at that bolt. It makes kind of a strange sequence because you clip 1, make a move, clip 2, unclip 1, make 2 moves and clip 3. Smart way to bolt this because you're safe the whole time and there isn't rope drag.
By grk10vq
Aug 11, 2010

ever hear that one song by led zepplin...
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Aug 17, 2011

I'm working this route and bolt one looks way rusted, bolt 2 is a spinner and the rest seem really good. I think this route is awesome. some big moves and once your off the big blocks there are no rests. very pumpy.

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