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Macedonia 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Season: shaded and east facing
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: bheller on Aug 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Another Limestone Waterstreak! 

Expect the first five bolts to provide fun and engaging climbing that weaves a bit through sinker pockets and edges with small feet. A little roof/buldge must be climbed before clipping the 5th bolt and arriving at a total hands free rest on the small ledge at half height. Probably 11c/d to here or so, so welcome that rest. Once you've re-loaded your guns, start firing- "cover" will be difficult to find on the second half. Bob and weave, left and right, through the waterstreak- crimping and clipping, but never cheating too far right. Stick with the streak- the rock is great! Expect a 25 ft section of sustained and technical 12a climbing. The crux coming at the 3rd quarter with a tricky insecure, high undercling leading up to a sinker left hand mono! Hold on for the final edges and little mantle before the anchor and you've got it! Relatively long by AF standards (even though it does have the hands free rest). How fitting, as the meaning of Macedonia basically translates to "tall and thin."

Finding me: 

What would seem more difficult? Finding the route Macedonia in American Fork Canyon, or having an average westerner locate Macedonia on a global map? My money says its going to be easier to find this great route! The trail to the Forgotten Trails meets the wall proper just 1 route downhill from Macedonia. Look for the nice pocketed face down low that leads to an obvious thick dark waterstreak higher up. The route is the second route to the right from the unmistakable corner with the 5.7 bolted slab/ramp.

Protection 

10 bolts to a chain anchor. Magnesium carbonate, Spanish sticky rubber, and French belay devices strongly recommended.


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By Leify Guy
Aug 12, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

If you don't end up using the mono, you're missing out on all the fun!

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