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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,921
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 7, 2001

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  • Description 

    MacCavity is located on the far right side of the Catslab, 2nd route from the right side of the bottom section of the slab. This is an enjoyable long pitch (120 feet) with great climbing throughout. The line goes through the right side of a little roof. (Left side of roof is Gumby Cat.) Climb past 8 more bolts with perhaps a move of 9+/10 climbing. A splendid line, which will be enjoyed by all.


    13 bolts - 2 bolt anchor. Approximately 125 feet from lower off. 2 ropes mandatory.

    Photos of MacCavity Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Some guy named John.  I said I'd send pix, but my ...
    Some guy named John. I said I'd send pix, but my ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the roof.
    At the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Grant Stockton starting up MacCavity.
    Grant Stockton starting up MacCavity.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Irina Overeem high-stepping the roof.
    Irina Overeem high-stepping the roof.

    Comments on MacCavity Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 10, 2015
    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 18, 2002

    This route can be led and seconded with a single rope by taking advantage of the 3rd class gully, just climbers right of the route. --Fun moves on the unusual, thin quartz veneer, high on the route.
    By Hill
    Jun 26, 2002

    This is a good line and a perfect first 5.10 lead! The moves thru the right side of the small roof are easier than they appear from the ground. With a 60 meter rope it's no problem to rap to the big ledge twenty feet off the ground and scramble down the easy terrain.
    By Bryson Slothower
    Mar 16, 2003

    Be mindful of loose rock hiding on this route.
    By Dale D
    From: Parker, CO
    Mar 29, 2010

    In my opinion, the moves heading right around the "roof" is not the crux, but instead the slab up higher. Not as difficult as Jellicle Cats. I did not note any loose rock.
    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 25, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I really liked this route. Consistent nice movement all the way up, with a little variety getting around the bulge roof (maybe the crux, but not much harder than other parts). Felt like a pleasant 5.9 to me, and a really secure lead as long as you don't mind the runout to the first bolt.
    By Teigon S.
    May 30, 2011

    This route rocks. You do not need two ropes if you have a 70 m rope, though. The crux was not the roof for me, it was the last 25 ft on the mega slab.
    By Andrew S
    Jul 8, 2011

    +1 that 2 ropes are not necessary as AC said. The obvious gully to the climber's right is an easy downclimb.
    By Ken McVicker
    Mar 15, 2012
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Good route, used a 70m rope and had about 10-15 feet left on the ground. The last 25 feet is tough going.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Jul 7, 2012
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    The anchor bolts on this route are suspect and in need of replacement. They are wiggling in their bolt holes. Be careful lowering. I'd be happy to assist in the replacement.
    By Derek Lawrence
    From: Bailey
    Aug 3, 2012
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Anchor replaced this evening. Due to funky rock in the original location, the new anchors are about 2 ft. lower. Big thanks to ASCA for the hardware!
    By ErikaNW
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 17, 2012

    Thank you for the anchor replacement!
    By Cara Hubbell
    From: Arvada, CO
    Oct 10, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    My 70m had the knots lying on the ground for the rap. I'd say it can be done with one rope!

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