REI Community
East Car Body Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ambition is Critical S 
Basalt Somersault T 
Boys-r-Blue S 
Citizens Against Spiders T 
Cleaning Lady, The T 
Dirty Luck T 
Eyeless in Gaza T 
Gargling Vinegar T 
Hershey Squirt S 
Holiday in Cambodia S 
Industrial Age, The S 
Lichen Lunch S 
Macabre Roof T 
Neon Leprechaun S,TR 
Pansy - Direct, The T 
Pansy, The S 
Raisin the Titanic T 
Rock Hudson S 
Scream, The T 
Spasm T 
Sperm Whale S 
Spice of Life, The S 
Temporary Insanity T 
Terminal Hypocrisy S 
Tin Man S 
Two Studs T 
Whaleback Crack T 
Whimper S 
Whitehead Crack T 
Wimp Roof S 
Unsorted Routes:

Macabre Roof 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom McLeod ~ 1975
Page Views: 2,094
Submitted By: Cory Harelson on Aug 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Me, not onsighting Macabre Roof

Seasonal Raptor Closures.


This climb features beautiful double hand cracks that eventually lead up to a roof, which is split in the middle by a crack. In Sandi Epeldi's book the roof is described as "a classic boulder problem in the sky", and I'd have to agree.


This climb is located roughly in the middle of the East Carbody Canyon wall.


This climb is very well protected and will suck up as many nuts and cams as you care to throw into it. There is a two bolt anchor on the comfortable ledge above the roof.

Photos of Macabre Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoy the ride. Roof protects well in case you nee...
Enjoy the ride. Roof protects well in case you nee...
Rock Climbing Photo: Reggie enjoying the twin hand cracks low on Macabr...
Reggie enjoying the twin hand cracks low on Macabr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoy the double cracks.
Enjoy the double cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Reggie getting ready for the business . . .
Reggie getting ready for the business . . .

Comments on Macabre Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By K Baumgartner
Oct 12, 2012

Route can be sewn up all the way. Long runners under the roof definitely are helpful. Throw in a few cams at the roof, find the feet, and pull it! Variety of holds, but the footwork is the tricky part. Probably wise to wear a helmet--hit my noggin a couple of times pulling out onto the roof.
By Maurice Chaunders
From: boise, id
May 15, 2014

Like the man says...easy lead up 2 cracks to a fun and committing boulder problem, with great pro. 2 purple camalots slide in nicely in the roof crack. You can place gear above the roof, but those cracks are better for hand holds. No pro after the roof, but it's a mellow scamp up the chains.
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2014

I agree. Tons of options for larger gear as you stem up the dihedral. Two 0.5 C4 purple Camalots with longer slings were perfect in the underside of the roof crack to sew up the crux. Especially if you happen to take a huge whipper trying to pull the roof, as I did the first time! There are plenty of options for gear above the roof although the climbing is easy. Don't miss this awesome route!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About