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d. Harvest Moon to the End
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Dark Side of the Moon T 
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Fat and Flabby T,TR 
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Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 
Keystone Kop T 
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Mac-Reppy T 
Main Line T 
Near Side of Far, The T 
Outsiders T 
Positively 4th Street T 
Punch and Judy T 
R2-OK? T 
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 
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Up in Arms T 
Void Where Inhibited T 
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Whatever T 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Reppy, 1965
Page Views: 1,438
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Simon figuring out the hard, reachy roof

A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>


Locate the large Outsiders block that leans against the cliff and forms an obvious chimney. To the right of that is the left-facing corner system of Main Line. Between those two landmarks, you will see a short left-facing corner and a crack that leads up to a roof that is often adorned with a clump of slings. This is Mac-Reppy.

Climb the corner and crack, go over the roof into another left-facing corner, then belay or go through the roof and corner system immediately above to the top.




The Far End of the Nears.

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By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Easier than 5.11c as in guidebook. For taller guys 5.10+. The upper portion 5.8 is incredible.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 7, 2009

This used to be 5.8 before a flake pulled off in the now-crux corner. It's 5.8 in blue Dick... I did it as an 8 and as an 11. It's well worth aiding the 11 crux and doing it as an 8 A0.

I remember the first time I did the upper part I did a full 360 degree turn around as I stemmed the upper corner.
By Steven Cherry
Jun 12, 2010

I can't imagine a less "committing" 5.11 climb. You can place great gear over the lip of the roof from a decent stance, then you can test various ways to attack the crux and keep returning to that stance, and then if you want you can downclimb a few moves and get a total rest before making your final assault. The move itself is hard or easy depending on the kind of climbing you're good at, and an argument can probably be made for any rating from 10a to 11a.
By akline
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I don't usually comment on routes, but I thought the other comments were a little sandbagged. I thought this climb was a one move gunks 5.11 and that the one move was really hard, like solid 5.11 hard and being tall doesn't help much. I am 6'1 and have climbed many 5.11's and 12's in the Gunks. Take that for whatever it's worth.
By chris_vultaggio
From: The Gunks
Dec 17, 2012

Agree with above - my 6'4" partner couldn't just stretch for the jug so definitely some moves between even for taller folks. Solid 5.11.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 25, 2013

This climb is worth doing (both pitches) even if you aid the crux. Very fun climbing on P2.
By Alex CV
From: Greater NYC area
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Solid 11 in my book. The "one move" for me was as hard as many other routes in that letter range.
By rogerbenton
Jun 7, 2015

5.10 guys???? Are we talking about the same route?
Gotta agree with akline - this thing is HARD.
The hand jam is great, the little left hand edge is ok, but that reach...

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