REI Community
Little Rock Candy Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bare Leigh Legal S 
Chicken Bones T 
Chicken Comb T 
Count Chocula TR 
Flake Hickey T 
Kendall Mint Cake T 
Lips Like Sugar T 
Little Rock Candy Crack T 
M & M's Peanut T 
M & Ms Plain T 
McStumpy Sandwich T 
My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas S 
Nestle's Crunch T 
Squirrel Roast T 
Sugar Daddy T 
Three Musketeers, The T 

M & Ms Plain 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey, February 1978
Page Views: 1,169
Submitted By: Graham Roff on Feb 27, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Getting ready for the climb.


A short and awkward climb up the most obvious of the two cracks on this face. The crux comes about ten feet off the ground and involves an balancy move from the flaring crack onto the face.Difficult to protect and not recommended.


Protects with small cams and nuts. Bolted anchor.

Photos of M & Ms Plain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephanie sending the crux.
Stephanie sending the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sooze on the monster.... where is the belayer??
Sooze on the monster.... where is the belayer??

Comments on M & Ms Plain Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2013
By Mike Hack
Mar 1, 2005

I didn't enjoy this climb. The crack is flared and gear doesn't seem all that nice. I guess the crux came low, but there were all these buckets just right . . . should I feel guilty for using them? Short climb . . . how did it get two stars in Randy's guide?
By Ryan Avery
Mar 9, 2005

I can't figure out this one either. It was ok, but it crack is flared and I wouldn't lead it. I TR'ed it after leading Little Rock Candy Crack just to the right. Easier than it looks, but wouldn't gear up all that good. I would recommend a TR up if you are in the area.
By Steve Powell
Apr 25, 2005

I disagree. this crack eats small pro.very fun climb.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 6, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A great climb requiring somewhat technical tips jamming and thoughtful gear placements.
By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As someone who seconded this route, I can't testify for the mental security that the pro may or may not have provided but I do remember it came out ok, and my leader didn't whine about it. As for the climb itself, its an ok crack if one is kickin around in the area.
By EricT
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 11, 2006

Agreed, it protects well with small gear. It's a cute little route.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007

Fun route, unfortunate is so short. Eats up pro and positive the whole way. Nice
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007

Fun climb! Painful toe jams but nice mental workout through the crux and great jugs reward thereafter.
By JoshuaTreeRunner David
From: Los Angeles
Jun 5, 2009

Good pro. Short.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 19, 2013

Readily protectable. Fun and interesting crux sequence, without stemming left to M&M's Peanut.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Oct 28, 2013

I've climbed this using only the crack and also by stemming over to M & Ms Peanut. I thought the stemming was a bit easier, but made it more interesting and memorable.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About