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From MP's sister site:

Lyons Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.2229, -105.27 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 191,519
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.

While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.

Getting There 

From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists!

Map of Lyons

Food 

Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.

Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....

For ice cream, Lyons Dairy Bar has replaced the Dairy Delite.

Tubing/Waterfun 

To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.

Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

529 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',22],['3 Stars',126],['2 Stars',244],['1 Star',131],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',31],['5.7',38],['5.8',62],['5.9',94],['5.10',122],['5.11',64],['5.12',25],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',23],['V2-3',12],['V4-5',22],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',2],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lyons

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lyons:
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Admission Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Handcrack-a-rete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Unleash The Lions   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Remission   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Hollow Man   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 195'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Casual Corner   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
KeeMoSabe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock
Sunshine Dihedral   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Panic in the Gray Room   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Lost in Time   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Upside The Cranium   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Rawhide   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock
Cyberchondrial Paranoia   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Life After James   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 220'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Neurosurgeon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Old Yellar   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : Old Yellar Dome
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lyons

Featured Route For Lyons
Rock Climbing Photo: Ted flashing Granite Beach.

Granite Beach 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Colorado : Lyons : ... : South Formation
Excellent route with 3 cruxes and two rests and some variability in opinion as to the relative difficulty at the cruxes. It may depend somewhat on the fact that for the 2nd two cruxes, there is different beta potential. I personally find the 1st crux to be the hardest once you know the route, but probably easier to onsight than the 3rd crux. Anyway, this is an excellent route. A little runout with clean falls in 2 or 3 places, but well-thought out bolt placements. Use of a long runner on bolt @P...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Lyons Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
BETA PHOTO: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dierection.
Dierection.
Rock Climbing Photo: Benny Randolf sends the route.
Benny Randolf sends the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fang from the paved parking area.
BETA PHOTO: The Fang from the paved parking area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
BETA PHOTO: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following P2....
Matt following P2....
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
Rock Climbing Photo: High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.

Comments on Lyons Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fred Knapp
Dec 11, 2008
Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons.
By sasso
From: loveland
Jul 26, 2013
Does anyone know the grade and names of the four or so sport routes that are right off the entrance road to Lion's Den and the starts are on the water, right below the dam?
By Eric Coppock
Jul 4, 2017
For those who need an ice cream fix after their day on the rocks, Dairy Delite went away a few years ago. It has been replaced by Lyons Dairy Bar ... this is a considerable upgrade!

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