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From MP's sister site:

Lyons Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.2229, -105.27 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 162,633
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Forecast:
Today

57° | 36°
Thursday

53° | 32°
Friday

48° | 29°
Saturday

39° | 27°
Sunday

50° | 36°
Monday

59° | 37°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.

While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.

Getting There 

From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists!

Map of Lyons

Food 

Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.

Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....

Tubing/Waterfun 

To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.

Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

520 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',122],['2 Stars',241],['1 Star',130],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',31],['5.7',38],['5.8',61],['5.9',91],['5.10',122],['5.11',63],['5.12',21],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',23],['V2-3',12],['V4-5',22],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',2],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lyons

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lyons:
Get Over It   V10 7C+     Boulder   Big Elk Meadows - Boulders : The Double Trouble Boulder
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Handcrack-a-rete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Hollow Man   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 195'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Casual Corner   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
KeeMoSabe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock
The Enthusiast aka Guided by Voices   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock
Panic in the Gray Room   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs
Sunshine Dihedral   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Lost in Time   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum
Upside The Cranium   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Pocket Hercules   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Temptation Arete   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Botany of Desire   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Old Yellar   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : Old Yellar Dome
Brother From Another Planet   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Le Diamant E'ternal   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : River Wall II
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lyons

Featured Route For Lyons
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on 1st ascent of New Horizons.

New Horizon 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  Colorado : Lyons : ... : River Wall II
New Horizon is everything a sport climb should be- beautiful, natural, aesthetic, and challenging. Slap the arete and hug the crack past fairly positive, yet widely spaced holds until it is no longer possible to span between the two features. At this point commit to the arete, lieback past the last bolt, and then traverse left to the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Lyons Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
BETA PHOTO: The Watchtower in warm afternoon sun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dierection.
Dierection.
Rock Climbing Photo: Benny Randolf sends the route.
Benny Randolf sends the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fang from the paved parking area.
BETA PHOTO: The Fang from the paved parking area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
BETA PHOTO: Piz Badille from the north, 8AM.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following P2....
Matt following P2....
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
Steve on 5.6 Cruiser.
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Here is a shot of the cliff, with Bert leading But...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Kat A. follows up the powerful lieback on 'Punchli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
Be sure to take in some craft brews and music at O...
Rock Climbing Photo: High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
High water in the Sheep Mtn gorge "the Califo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.
Bouldering at Rabbit Mountain.

Comments on Lyons Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fred Knapp
Dec 11, 2008
Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons.
By sasso
From: loveland
Jul 26, 2013
Does anyone know the grade and names of the four or so sport routes that are right off the entrance road to Lion's Den and the starts are on the water, right below the dam?

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