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Lyon's House Corner Direct T 

Lyon's House Corner Direct 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: rdlennon on Dec 13, 2008

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Description 

Takes a very appealing, direct line up the sharp arete left of Lyon's House Corner. Tricky and deceptive, from below it seems way hard for the grade. Even while climbing, holds and gear are not readily apparent. Be a confident HVS leader before trying this one.

That said, this is a great route. Classic moves, exposure, and a little spice contribute in making this a worthwhile and memorable climb.

Start on the sharp arete above a bad landing. Make balancy moves on strange holds (a jug broke off this section a few years ago) to reach some small wire placements. With difficulty, hug the arete and make two moves to gain easier ground. Reach a small ledge and traverse right slightly to join Lyon's House Corner. (The direct attack on the arete is roughly E1 5c, allegedly.) Follow chalked shelves up and left, shortly rejoining the arete, which is followed past several mantles to the top.

Location 

Just right of Great Slab, the right hand of two sharp aretes. Walk off far to the climber's right (bring shoes, perhaps)

Protection 

Several small wires for crux. Wires and small cams for rest. Sparsely protected but not runout.


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