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Lynn Woods

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From MP's sister site:

Lynn Woods Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 285'
Location: 42.48946, -70.99199 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 116,791
Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2007  with updates from Tim McGivern and 6 more
Forecast:
Tonight

64°
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80° | 64°
Saturday

71° | 61°
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75° | 60°
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78° | 61°
Tuesday

78° | 63°
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Description 

This area, a 2200 acre municipal forest, is located close to Castle Hill near Saugus (NE of Boston). In the US, it ranks as the 2nd largest municipally owned park. There is roped climbing here on Lantern Rock and possibly on Burrill Hill Observation Tower. This is very close to Walden Pond. (Per BlueEyeMountain.com: Henry David Thoreau probably never even heard of Walden Pond in Lynn Woods. Thoreau's Walden is in Concord and is a totally different pond. However, Lynn Woods is a beautiful place, so it deserves its own naturalist). There is also a rock called Dungeon Rock that lies West of Dungeon, Northeast of Pennybrook on Waycross.

It's probably best to think of this as a place to get quality bouldering in an idyllic setting in the Boston area. This section needs to get fleshed out by someone with more familiarity.

Per BlueEyeMountain.com: the climbing listed here is mainly on the south side of Walden Pond, but, as with the mountain biking, the real goods are on the north side. Over the past few years, the bouldering there has been developed to the point that the number and quality of boulder problems is probably equal to Pawtuckaway and the other LW, Lincoln Woods. In fact, if the boulders at Lynn Woods were concentrated closer together, it might be better than those areas for bouldering.

There has been development of many boulder problems (>500) up to 20 feet in height on on at least 100 boulders in the area that can range from very short to 30 minute approaches. Some of the developers here include: Bob Johnson, Pete Otis, Bob Parrott, Andy Scott, Jerome Boutaud, Dean Feuller, Darryl Leonard, Ben Hoza, Ryan Bouldin, Tim McGivern, Dave Twardowski, Luis Gaviria, among others. According to Pete Otis and Andy Scott, this area has the best bouldering within an hour of Boston. Many of the bouldering areas are hard to find, but there are some huge granite blocks out there and quite a few open projects. The quality ratings indicate at least 20! 4 star problems here. The difficulty scale of the problems currently range from V0 to V9. There is potential for problems perhaps in the V12 range here.

Thanks all for the help on this section!

Getting There 

Go north on I-93 to US Hwy 1. Go north to Route 129 (short of Hwy 128)/I-95. Go East to Pennybrook St. Go North about 0.3 miles. Park on the West side. Hike about 100 yards East to near Breed's Pond.

Website 

There is a website for information regarding this municipal resource, another website, Bouldering website.

Dungeon Rock 

Dungeon Rock is a 135-foot-deep cave that was once believed to hold a treasure and its unfortunate pirate. Access is unclear.

Mountain Biking 

There is some decent single track, fire roads, rocky & sandy double tracks. Update per BlueEyeMountain.com: First off, the mountain biking at Lynn Woods is a little better than "decent." In fact, the mountain biking there may possibly be the best in all of New England. There are 40 miles of trails. The trails on the north side of Walden Pond are a freerider's paradise, full of drops, rock gardens, and other natural obstacles. An experienced cross-country rider will love the fast single track and monster climbs on the south side. Even the fireroads are fun and challenging for beginners.

Maps 

From Tim McGivern, Dave Twardowski, and Luis Gaviria: a newer map can be found here.

This map is on the Caltopo platform, so the data can be downloaded to a GPS app such as GAIA, or used to create custom maps. Boulders or cliffs with known access issues are not on this map. Combined with the MP app, you end up having a virtual guide on your phone. Another important update is that the names of boulders and problems has been coordinated with the mp.com page. This was done carefully with consideration of the original developers. The map is not perfect, but it is by far the best resource available for climbing at Lynn Woods at this time. It will also improve with time. If there are folks who are interested in improving the map, please contact the above.

An alternative/older (in that it was on this website prior to the above) map was previously found here: Map. Both are left for your use, since users may vary in their preferences.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

988 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',80],['3 Stars',237],['2 Stars',474],['1 Star',185],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',113],['V2-3',149],['V4-5',310],['V6-7',255],['V8-9',46],['V10-11',2],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lynn Woods

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lynn Woods:
Bear Grease   V1 5     Boulder, 18'   Stone Tower area : Bob Johnson Boulders
Stone Beachball   V2 5+     Boulder, 16'   Weetamoo area : Summit Boulders
Hidden Arete   V2 5+     Boulder   Stone Tower area : The Hidden Boulder
Pipefitter   V3 6A     Boulder, 13'   Golf Course Boulders : Pipefitter Boulder
Stage Fright   V3 6A     Boulder, 25'   Mt. Spicket/Goliath Rock ar... : Golden Wall
The Resolution   V3 6A     Boulder   Hillside Boulder Area : Resolution Boulder
Holly the Happy Heel Hooker   V3+ 6A+     Boulder, 12'   Stone Tower area : Slant Right Boulder
Baldy   V3+ 6A+     Boulder, 13'   Golf Course Boulders : 14th Hole Boulder
Phantom Roof   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Sector One : Phantom Boulder
The Seed   V4 6B     Boulder, 13'   Mt. Spicket/Goliath Rock ar... : Bob Parrott Boulder
Crackatoa   V4 6B     Boulder   Parking Lot/Fenway area : Crouching Tiger Boulder
Fist Fucker    V5 6C     Boulder   Stone Tower area : Stone Tower Boulder
Freedom from Addiction   V6- 7A     Boulder, 13'   Golf Course Boulders : 14th Hole Boulder
The Chi Problem   V6 7A     Boulder, 13'   Weetamoo area : F7 Boulder (Aka the Perfect...
Great Frog Arete   V6 7A     Boulder, 25'   Weetamoo area : Great Frog Boulder
Golden Arete   V7 7A+     Boulder, 18'   Weetamoo area : Weetamoo Boulder
Dog Leg Crack   V7 7A+     Boulder, 18'   Weetamoo area : Weetamoo Boulder
The Buttermilker   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Stone Tower area : Stone Tower Boulder
The Swell   V7 7A+     Boulder, 14'   Weetamoo area : Weetamoo Boulder
Green Haze    V7+ 7A+     Boulder   Stone Tower area : Stone Tower Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lynn Woods

Featured Route For Lynn Woods
Rock Climbing Photo: Hidden Arete.

Hidden Arete V2 5+  Massachusetts : Lynn Woods : ... : The Hidden Boulder
Climbs the obvious, left-leaning arete on the Hidden Boulder that faces down the hill. Start standing at the corner and climb the super fun arete. Top out the highest point of the boulder....[more]   Browse More Classics in Massachusetts

Photos of Lynn Woods Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slab side of Stone Tower Boulder.
BETA PHOTO: Slab side of Stone Tower Boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Green Side.
BETA PHOTO: Green Side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Orange Side.
BETA PHOTO: Orange Side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Easier Side of the Elephant Boulder, W14 on the Ly...
BETA PHOTO: Easier Side of the Elephant Boulder, W14 on the Ly...
Rock Climbing Photo: A sample of the Lynn Woods rock type.
BETA PHOTO: A sample of the Lynn Woods rock type.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a close up of the granite you see around h...
BETA PHOTO: This is a close up of the granite you see around h...
Rock Climbing Photo: DW11 (B17).
BETA PHOTO: DW11 (B17).
Rock Climbing Photo: B19.
BETA PHOTO: B19.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lynn Woods map.  Visit flw.org for more informatio...
BETA PHOTO: Lynn Woods map. Visit flw.org for more informatio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old man in the outback.
Old man in the outback.
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitey McLane sends Tomb Raider, a classic V2 put ...
Whitey McLane sends Tomb Raider, a classic V2 put ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Baker sends the Guillotine, a classic V3 aret...
Rich Baker sends the Guillotine, a classic V3 aret...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Robb on "The Dog Leg," an old classi...
Joe Robb on "The Dog Leg," an old classi...

Comments on Lynn Woods Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2017
By BlueEyeMountain.com
Aug 21, 2007
Whoa! The description of Lynn Woods provided by Leo is a bit dated. First off, the mountain biking at Lynn Woods is a little better than "decent." In fact, the mountain biking there may possibly be the best in all of New England. There are 40 miles of trails. The trails on the north side of Walden Pond are a freerider's paradise, full of drops, rock gardens, and other natural obstacles. An experienced cross-country rider will love the fast single track and monster climbs on the south side. Even the fireroads are fun and challenging for beginners.

Secondly, Henry David Thoreau probably never even heard of Walden Pond in Lynn Woods. Thoreau's Walden is in Concord and is a totally different pond. However, Lynn Woods is a beautiful place so it deserves its own naturalist.

Lastly, the climbing listed here is mainly on the south side of Walden Pond but, as with the mountain biking, the real goods are on the north side. Over the past few years, the bouldering there has been developed to the point that the number and quality of boulder problems is probably equal to Pawtuckaway and the other LW, Lincoln Woods. In fact, if the boulders at Lynn Woods were concentrated closer together, it might be better than those areas for bouldering.

For a map of the bouldering at a Lynn Woods, go to lynnwoodsbouldering.com. To view the page correctly, make sure you download the latest Java software from java.com. For more info on the amazing mountain biking at LW, go to dieselbikes.com.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 21, 2007
BlueEyeMountain, thanks for the update. It's been a while. Dang how the years fly by.
By Old Timer
Administrator
From: North Andover MA
May 4, 2010
The best bouldering within an hour of Boston. Many of the bouldering areas are hard to find, but there are some huge granite blocks out there and about 35 open projects at the present time.
By czd
Oct 10, 2010
Does anyone know anything about routes on the "Great Frog Bouler"? It has one of the most impressive faces I've ever seen on a boulder with two very climbable, highball aretes. I'm sure someone has done something on it....
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 20, 2010
Thanks for sorting the boulders into areas - it will be very helpful. Also helpful would be removing references to one boulder in the directions to another (e.g., "From the Egg Boulder, turn around and ...."). I've been out to Lynn Woods three times and found only a handful of decent problems - and that includes a bunch of wandering off trail in the woods. I've seen the pictures, so I know that more problems exist. Help me!

Still, thanks for the additional organization and for posting this stuff at all. I know it takes time, and I appreciate the opening up a resource.
By Old Timer
Administrator
From: North Andover MA
Nov 22, 2010
Coz,
We are heading out on Wednesday of this week and then probably on the weekend, too. Let us know and we will give you a tour, and I promise you won't get lost. Pete
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
From: CT
Jul 18, 2011
I'm pretty sure Frog Boulder's aretes were climbed by Bob Parrot for the FAs. I had done two hard problems on the back right side years ago when my grandparents lived next to the park.

Edit: Pete - The amount of routes and your listing them on here is simply AMAZING!!! Keep up the great work, man!!!
By Old Timer
Administrator
From: North Andover MA
Jul 19, 2011
Hey Morgan,
I updated it.... Thanks for the info.
By ellen1298
Jun 16, 2013
I found a key/key fab for a Volvo underneath a boulder problem in the Mt. Spickett area. If you know who it may belong to, please let me know.
By Forrest L.
Jul 3, 2013
Higher res pdf map.

LW pdf map
By Tim McGivern
From: Medford, ma
Mar 24, 2017
Found this video today....
By Tim McGivern
From: Medford, ma
Mar 24, 2017
By Tim McGivern
From: Medford, ma
Mar 24, 2017
By Tim McGivern
From: Medford, ma
May 30, 2017
There is a new Lynn Woods Climbing Map that builds off the map from lynnwoodsbouldering.com. Dave Twardowski, Luis Felipe Gaviria, and I have located and updated close to 98% of the climbing locations in the municipal park and beyond. This was a huge effort and Dave T. deserves serious props. Boulders or cliffs with known access issues are not on this map.

The new map is on the Caltopo platform, so the data can be downloaded to a GPS app such as GAIA, or used to create custom maps. Combined with the MP app, you end up having a virtual guide on your phone.

Another important update is that names of boulders and problems have been coordinated with the Mountain Project page/database. This was done carefully with consideration of the original developers. The map is not perfect, but it is by far the best resource available for climbing at Lynn Woods at this time. It will also improve with time. If there are folks who are interested in improving the map, please let either me or Dave know.

BRAND NEW LYNN WOODS MAP.

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