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Lying Back with Ellie Mae 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ellie Mae Clampett
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Jeff Edge on Oct 21, 2015

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Lay backing is easier but then you don't get t...

Description 

Lieback the juggy lip on the left side of this crack, don't forget to look for good feet on the left for rests. Sustained and continuous, a fun natural feature to climb.

Location 

The obvious crack feature to the left of "Whee Doggies!" 5.8, and just to the right of "Possum Grits" 5.9.

Protection 

Toprope off the Whee Dogies! anchor (don't fall, or wide piece as a directional), or lead with extremely wide gear.


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By AaronJ
From: Japan
Oct 21, 2015

I believe this is listed in Eric Ulner's Vertical Heartland (3rd ed.) as "Lying Back with Ellie Mae." FA - Ellie Mae Clampett
By Jeff Edge
Oct 22, 2015

Awesome, thanks. Fixed it.
By Nick Tripp
5 days ago

A fun layback if top roping, but prepare for even more fun offwidth technique on lead as you twist back into the crack for pro.

For the lead, "extremely wide gear" isn't quite true; a single rack to #4 protects more than sufficiently. Anchor takes similar "wide" gear.

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