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The Fin
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L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Horse T 
Dorsal Fin, The T 
Fin Arete, The T 
Fins and Needles T 
Fish For Brains S 
Gills, The T 
Hand Drills Suck! T 
Hook, Line and Sinker T 
Lateral Fin, The T 
Lyin & Cryin  T 
Other Intentions T 
Pabst Schmear, The S 
Ventral Fin, The T 
Wasatch Harlem T 
Wave of Mutilation, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lyin & Cryin  

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips, Luke Douglas, Pat and Kristen Bardsley
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: zoso on Aug 9, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


A very easy but relatively entertaining 3 pitch romp.

P1: 5.7. 3 clips then EZ terrain up a crack/face to chains on the left.

P2: 5.7+. Up the obvious bolt line starting with a pin. Thought the crux of the route was here not on P1 as the Granite Guide suggests.
Head directly up to the roof and place a directional for your follower then walk right to chains.

P3: 5.6. Link a clusterfest of chicken heads via clips until a move left lands you in a crack and then up to chains.

Not sure you can link any pitches due to the nature of P2.


This quick little romp is right on the trail to the Fin approach. Hopskotch up on chicken heads. The first 3 bolts are obvious and closely spaced on a slab facing west.

Getting off the bastard:
1. Double rope rap from top of P3 to top anchor of Wasatch Harlem, then a 35m rap to the dirt (i.e. with a 70m).
2. 3 single raps with a 70m
3. I suppose you could descend the same way you got up here with three 60m raps, but that'd be relatively annoying.


Mixed. Singles to #3. Nothing micro needed. Well protected the whole way. Chains at each belay.

Comments on Lyin & Cryin Add Comment
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By zoso
Aug 9, 2017

Of note The Fin trail is pretty overgrown right now. We picked it up and lost it half a dozen times. I'll try and get up there soon to clip it into submission.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Aug 17, 2017

Where does this start on the trail? Sounds like a fun way to start the main routes.
By JimG
Aug 17, 2017

Where does this start on the trail?

It starts right off the trail as you head up a steep section hugging the rock of the lower Fin Buttress. Your right shoulder will be rubbing the rock as you pull on bushes to get up the trail, and you look up and see three bolts heading up some black chikenheads. This is a good little route, and when you rap off you end up at the start of Wasatch Harlem, another good slab route.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 9, 2017

The 1st pitch anchor is to the left of the climbing. I missed it and linked the first 2 pitches. They link well if you use long runners. With stretch, you can rap from p3 with a single 70 to the Pabst Smear anchors but safer to do 3 raps.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Oct 9, 2017

Pitch 3 is really good. Best to approach via the Wasatch Harlem however.
By bus driver
2 days ago

Decent little route. Reduce the runout after bolt three by slinging a chicken head.

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