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Lycra Sheath 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Ballard, Mark Yarbrough 1988
Page Views: 907
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006

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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Climb the main ramp using gear and then move up the face following the bolts. The crux is just past the 2nd bolt in my opinion. For top roping I suggest using the middle balcony to belay instead of the lower section, a much better view too.


The center middle ramp on the Leaning tower. Look for the large diving board up top which you will be to the right of.


Gear, 3 bolts, and a small TCU placement in a crack on the face. Chains up top.

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By Austin McCrimmon
Mar 24, 2015

The anchor on the top of this seemed a little suspect.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 25, 2015

It's isn't an ideal setup. Maybe old, but it's bomb proof. The angle of pull in that granite. Unless things have started spinning up there, I never gave it a second thought. Best to carry some extendable slings for the anchor if you intend to top rope.
By Chase Webb
From: Little Rock, AR
Apr 13, 2017

It should be noted that there is some loose rock on this face and route-finding can be tricky. I tried to onsite this route and broke a hold off in the run-out section well above the last bolt, resulting in a 30+ foot whipper ending just above the slab...The hold that broke didn't even seem loose. Also, the anchor was replaced by the Texas Mountaineers last year.

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