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Lycra Sheath 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Ballard, Mark Yarbrough 1988
Page Views: 907
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the main ramp using gear and then move up the face following the bolts. The crux is just past the 2nd bolt in my opinion. For top roping I suggest using the middle balcony to belay instead of the lower section, a much better view too.

Location 

The center middle ramp on the Leaning tower. Look for the large diving board up top which you will be to the right of.

Protection 

Gear, 3 bolts, and a small TCU placement in a crack on the face. Chains up top.


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By Austin McCrimmon
Mar 24, 2015

The anchor on the top of this seemed a little suspect.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 25, 2015

It's isn't an ideal setup. Maybe old, but it's bomb proof. The angle of pull in that granite. Unless things have started spinning up there, I never gave it a second thought. Best to carry some extendable slings for the anchor if you intend to top rope.
By Chase Webb
From: Little Rock, AR
Apr 13, 2017

It should be noted that there is some loose rock on this face and route-finding can be tricky. I tried to onsite this route and broke a hold off in the run-out section well above the last bolt, resulting in a 30+ foot whipper ending just above the slab...The hold that broke didn't even seem loose. Also, the anchor was replaced by the Texas Mountaineers last year.

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