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Lycanthropia 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Martin Berzins
Page Views: 2,287
Submitted By: Matt McCormick on Sep 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jamie taking the 30' whip onto the blindly placed ...

Description 

This route is yet another one of Martin Berzins' bold and hard additions to the Daks. Put up in 1991, this route contains some of the raddest and most desperate moves I've experienced on any route and amazingly has remained un-repeated to the best of my knowledge. The proximity to Drop Fly or Die is completely overshadowed by the quality of the climbing.

Climb the start of Drop Fly Or Die and at the first roof continue straight up in a tight hands and ringlocks crack. At the horizontal, move left into Drop Fly for 4'. Reach out, blindly place a wire or micro cam in the seam and then move right on small desperate holds into a crazy boulder sequence with no feet until your established in a finger lock and can place your next piece. Continue up the sustained crack above to the enormous guillotine flake and then right to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location 

Start as for Drop Fly or Die.

Protection 

Many small cams and nuts plus some .75 camalot size pieces.


Photos of Lycanthropia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Early in the crux on a redpoint send
Early in the crux on a redpoint send
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid crux on a redpoint send
Mid crux on a redpoint send
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie trying to hold onto slopy "jug" mi...
Jamie trying to hold onto slopy "jug" mi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie Hamilton moves into the crux on a close atte...
Jamie Hamilton moves into the crux on a close atte...

Comments on Lycanthropia Add Comment
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By jamie Hamilton
From: santa fe nm
Sep 30, 2009

This rig is rad. Great crack climbing mixed with some difficult and elegant face climbing above some scary gear! The black alien skidded a good 1/4" when I whipped on it, any more and it would have blown. Berzins was ahead of his time. This thing needs more traffic!
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Aug 28, 2017
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

This is a great route with a bizarre and very difficult crux. I found it much harder than any sequence on Zabba. However, Zabba is more sustained and overall harder to put together (but not by much). It is possible to place gear mid crux, but it's very strenuous to do so.

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