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Boulder Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cold Comfort T 
Fun Toosh 
Kitchen Confidential 
Lean on Me 
Loose Lady T 
Lust T 
Nose, The 
Olive Oyl 
Picket Line T 
Refrigerator 
Supervalue T 
Talking Holds T 
Tea Cup 
Tick-tack-toe 
Triage Arete S 
True Love S 
TurboCharger T 
Unknown Offwidth T 
Wing Night 
Unsorted Routes:

Lust 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: N. Jones, T. Holwill, B. Noble, 1992
Season: Faces North-West
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Tony starting up Lust, I think.

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Good climbing, but not terribly aesthetic. There are several ways to do this climb, all about 5.10 or 5.10+ The crux is at least above the 4th bolt no matter which is chosen.
Climb past 4 bolts on chunky but solid rock to reach a set of thin cracks, seams, and pods on the left (steep) or to pull around right and continue up a slab with two bolts and a crack... Both options feel like 5.10-something and the right side is probably the better protected- and sunnier.

Location 

This is the bolted line on the north-west face of the wall just right of the 'Supervalue' crack and is a few feet right of the fingercrack 'Cold Comfort' which can be used to set a TR if the grade has you wanting a TR.

Protection 

Some draws and nuts or small cams. A two-bolt anchor and chains are up top.


Comments on Lust Add Comment
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By Mark van Eijk
Nov 24, 2011

Seems like the original line joined up with loose lady at the sunny ledge on the right. The two bolts on the upper slab add a new variation which felt stiffer than taking the cracks on the right.

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