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Lust In The Wonderland 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Craig Fry and Dave Evans, February 1985
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Apr 15, 2011

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Description 

Moderate crack climbing leads to an easy face, and then you get to twin flared cracks, about six feet apart. A #3.5 - #4 camalot in these cracks (not very secure) is your only protection for crux climbing above. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Location 

This is about 100 feet left of Early Bird. It is an open face with short twin cracks at mid-height.

Protection 

Be sure to bring #3 - #4 camalots for flared placements in the crack at mid-height


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By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Varied and fun route if you're confident with J Tree 5.9 crack and face. Protection is rare and sketchy in flaring cracks.

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