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Bell Canyon
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Cliffhanger TR 
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Lure of Lucre 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown (bolted and led by Floyd Hayes, November 2007)
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Sep 28, 2010

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Relatively clean, long and sustained, this is the best climb at the crag. Surmount a short overhang just right of the overhanging "bell," mantel onto a small pillar, then climb thin face to a double-bolt anchor. The climb is hardest and most sustained if you climb straight up through the bolts, easier if you move left. Above the third bolt either: (1) climb straight up above the last bolt, which is a bit runout (final move is 5.10a); (2) place a small nut or cam in a groove to protect the final move; or (3) move left and clip the last bolt on Once Upon a Climb for an easier 5.6 finish.


Left of the obvious large hand crack (Old Time Revival). Starts just right of the overhanging "bell" where a bolt is placed just left of a short vertical crack.


Three or four bolts plus optional nut or cam.

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