REI Community
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallowtail T 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Jim Hicks, Larry Morris, 1971.
Page Views: 1,970
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Having fun on Lurch


Just right of "East Chimney", climb a left facing corner, then knobs (5.8) to a two bolt belay.
Climb face to the top.


Pro to 2", slings for knobs.

Comments on Lurch Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 12, 2007

2nd pitch pretty runout, short third pitch unless you string it together.

I thought Lurch was classic.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

The two-bolt anchor for this route has chains and can be rapped with a 60 m rope (if the second pitch looks uninspiring...which it kinda does).

After topping out the roof, traverse slightly right, clip a (somewhat older) bolt down low, and finish 20' of face climbing to the anchors by going either just right or just left of the bolt (I went right). I found this section to be the crux mentally of the route as there is no pro to be had and a bad, bad fall awaits (i.e. free-fall onto the slab below). The knobs available are fairly good for hands and feet but not really that sling-able and seemed unlikely to stay roped during any real fall, so why bother. The runout here is essentially PG13 in distance on delicate climbing ground but R in consequences.

Anyhow, the leader should have a pretty cool head for this one!!!

Lurch is a very nice route and a great mind-fuck at moments.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 5, 2011

Mind the rope drag on this one. When I did it, I'd screwed myself so badly with it in the lower crack and coming over the roof I had to pre-yank out enough slack to make my next moves. I think a fall would definitely have been in the R category at that point.
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Fun route, but pretty heady in spots. The second pitch is super run out. It has been years but I remember possible one solid piece 10' out from the anchor and then only one or two very marginal knob tie-offs (one of them slipped of after I had climbed above it) and a crack 6' from the top-out. Felt like a good Toulumne style lead.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About