Looking across Jenny's Cove from Beaufort Buttress...
The island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite.
The remoteness means that even in the hight of the season there are usually only a few climbers around. While being one of a few climbers adds to the spice, you need also realize that climbing here has its risks, and help isn't 5 minutes away.
One thing to note is you can't really just turn up and climb. You must reserve accommodation (this includes campsites) in advance and the numbers are limited and they fill up early. All the details for a visit can be found on the Islands website. lundyisland.co.uk/
The only way on or off the island is via the ferry, which you must book. The ferry leaves from Bideford and has set sailing times.
Climbing Season For the South West area.
Weather station 13.2 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lundy
Destiny 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : St Patrick's Buttress
The rightward-slanting crackline in the headwall. Protection is excellent and the climbing is sustained. Considered by Littlejohn to be his proudest crack climb at the time, and the hardest route on the island!P1, 29m, 4b.Starting directly beneath the left end of the crack, climb a groove (some suspect rock) then the slab above to a good belay beneath the crack. Often omitted, especially at high tide by abseiling in direct to this stance.P2, 30m, 5c.This is the main event! Set off up the slab ai...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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