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Lundy Rock Climbing 


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Location: 51.1772, -4.6699 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,199
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 6, 2010
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Looking across Jenny's Cove from Beaufort Buttress...

Description 

The island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite.

The remoteness means that even in the hight of the season there are usually only a few climbers around. While being one of a few climbers adds to the spice, you need also realize that climbing here has its risks, and help isn't 5 minutes away.

One thing to note is you can't really just turn up and climb. You must reserve accommodation (this includes campsites) in advance and the numbers are limited and they fill up early. All the details for a visit can be found on the Islands website.

lundyisland.co.uk/

Getting There 

The only way on or off the island is via the ferry, which you must book. The ferry leaves from Bideford and has set sailing times.

Climbing Season

For the South West area.

Weather station 13.2 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',5],['5.9',1],['5.10',10],['5.11',6],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Lundy
Rock Climbing Photo: start of the crack system

The Indy 500 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : First Buttress South
An excellent, sustained crack climb which builds to a tricky finale. Protection is ideal throughout, but don't hang around too long placing it. Although the wall looks to be covered in lichen from the bottom, the line of the route is clean.P1, 40m, 5b.Start at the base of the large, vegetated corner, which is followed for about 10m to reach a crack on the left wall. Climb a short way up the crack until it is necessary to step left into a second crack. Follow this steeply through a bulge to a dec...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Lundy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil's Slide, Lundy
The Devil's Slide, Lundy
Rock Climbing Photo: The Old Light on Lundy
The Old Light on Lundy
Rock Climbing Photo: how to get there
how to get there
Rock Climbing Photo: getting ready
getting ready
Rock Climbing Photo: lighthouse is a blast. Insitu deckchairs, quintess...
lighthouse is a blast. Insitu deckchairs, quintess...
Rock Climbing Photo: bring a v. strong tent (this was summer!)
bring a v. strong tent (this was summer!)
Rock Climbing Photo: Relaxing with a cup of tea after a days climbing
Relaxing with a cup of tea after a days climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: The Marisco Tavern is at the heart of lundy, and p...
The Marisco Tavern is at the heart of lundy, and p...

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