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Lundy

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Lundy Rock Climbing 


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Location: 51.1772, -4.6699 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,583
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 6, 2010
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Looking across Jenny's Cove from Beaufort Buttress...

Description 

The island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite.

The remoteness means that even in the hight of the season there are usually only a few climbers around. While being one of a few climbers adds to the spice, you need also realize that climbing here has its risks, and help isn't 5 minutes away.

One thing to note is you can't really just turn up and climb. You must reserve accommodation (this includes campsites) in advance and the numbers are limited and they fill up early. All the details for a visit can be found on the Islands website.

lundyisland.co.uk/

Getting There 

The only way on or off the island is via the ferry, which you must book. The ferry leaves from Bideford and has set sailing times.

Climbing Season

For the South West area.

Weather station 13.2 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',5],['5.9',1],['5.10',10],['5.11',6],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Lundy
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch

Quatermass 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Deep Zawn
1. 24m 5c Follow a vague leftwards line into a scoop, and step left into the crackline. Follow this, with difficult moves to gain a small incut ledge, and continue to an overhang and an unsound block. Go straight up for 8 metres until moves right along small ledges and past a dubious flake lead to the halfway ledge. Take a stance beneath the twin cracks.2 12m 5o The twin cracks lead steeply to a belay beneath a large stepped corner. 3 24m 5c Go up the corner for a few metres until level with a t...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Lundy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil's Slide, Lundy
The Devil's Slide, Lundy
Rock Climbing Photo: The Old Light on Lundy
The Old Light on Lundy
Rock Climbing Photo: how to get there
how to get there
Rock Climbing Photo: getting ready
getting ready
Rock Climbing Photo: lighthouse is a blast. Insitu deckchairs, quintess...
lighthouse is a blast. Insitu deckchairs, quintess...
Rock Climbing Photo: bring a v. strong tent (this was summer!)
bring a v. strong tent (this was summer!)
Rock Climbing Photo: Relaxing with a cup of tea after a days climbing
Relaxing with a cup of tea after a days climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: The Marisco Tavern is at the heart of lundy, and p...
The Marisco Tavern is at the heart of lundy, and p...

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