Looking across Jenny's Cove from Beaufort Buttress...
The island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite.
The remoteness means that even in the hight of the season there are usually only a few climbers around. While being one of a few climbers adds to the spice, you need also realize that climbing here has its risks, and help isn't 5 minutes away.
One thing to note is you can't really just turn up and climb. You must reserve accommodation (this includes campsites) in advance and the numbers are limited and they fill up early. All the details for a visit can be found on the Islands website. lundyisland.co.uk/
The only way on or off the island is via the ferry, which you must book. The ferry leaves from Bideford and has set sailing times.
Climbing Season For the South West area.
Weather station 13.2 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lundy
Dark Power 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : Phantom Zawn
A brilliant, exposed route taking a diagonal line from the ledge on the seaward side into the depths of the zawn and emerging via an unlikely hand traverse and crack.P1, 18m, 5b.From the tidal ledge, follow twin cracks up and leftwards to an overlap. Pull up into a left-facing corner and then traverse leftwards into a prominent groove which is followed to a thread and nuts belay.P2, 23m, 5b.Pull up and left from the belay then swing steeply leftwards on good holds. Continue up to a line of jugs ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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