Looking across Jenny's Cove from Beaufort Buttress...
The island of Lundy is located off the north coast of Devon in the middle of the Bristol Channel. The island is approximately 1/2 mile wide by 3 miles long. Although climbing can be found on all sides, the west coast of Lundy hosts an amazing treasure trove of steep granite sea cliffs. The are many fine crags scattered along the coast, but the most distinctive is the Devils Slide - an incredible 400 ft sweep of perfect granite.
The remoteness means that even in the hight of the season there are usually only a few climbers around. While being one of a few climbers adds to the spice, you need also realize that climbing here has its risks, and help isn't 5 minutes away.
One thing to note is you can't really just turn up and climb. You must reserve accommodation (this includes campsites) in advance and the numbers are limited and they fill up early. All the details for a visit can be found on the Islands website. lundyisland.co.uk/
The only way on or off the island is via the ferry, which you must book. The ferry leaves from Bideford and has set sailing times.
Climbing Season For the South West area.
Weather station 13.2 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lundy
The Indy 500 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : First Buttress South
An excellent, sustained crack climb which builds to a tricky finale. Protection is ideal throughout, but don't hang around too long placing it. Although the wall looks to be covered in lichen from the bottom, the line of the route is clean.P1, 40m, 5b.Start at the base of the large, vegetated corner, which is followed for about 10m to reach a crack on the left wall. Climb a short way up the crack until it is necessary to step left into a second crack. Follow this steeply through a bulge to a dec...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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