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Lundy Canyon Ice
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Lundy Falls 
Triple Conjunction T 

Lundy Falls 


Type:  Ice, 500', Grade II
Original: WI2 [details]
FA: Jim Collins, John Ellsworth, Art Buck, mid-1970's
Season: Late fall/early winter
Page Views: 202
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Nov 23, 2015

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Scrambling into the gully on the approach.


Also known as "Three Wise Men". A fun backcountry romp. Be aware that there is a high volume of water underneath/behind this route, climb carefully. Later in the season access can be more problematic and the route could catch a lot of snow in a big storm.

After getting into the gully follow it up for a couple hundred feet. This could be easy snow, low angle ice, or a combination of the two. Wherever it looks best turn right and climb the steeper ice for a few pitches.


This route is the creek that drains Lake Helen. Follow the trail into Lundy Canyon. Leave the trail soon after it starts to switchback uphill to the south, where it's closest to the gully containing the route. If you're in the right spot you can scramble down 30 feet of 3rd class ledges to access the gully. When this section is snow covered it could be more interesting.

From the top hike uphill for a minute or two before cutting left to pick up the trail. You can also access the top of the gully crossed on the approach (climber's left of the route) which provides a ripping glissade when snow conditions are right. Be aware that you are in avalanche terrain here.


Ice screws. A light rock rack (stoppers, cams from a .4 to #2 BD) could be useful if the ice is on the thinner side.

Photos of Lundy Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the bottom section of the falls.
Starting up the bottom section of the falls.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising on the upper part of the route.
Cruising on the upper part of the route.

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