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04. Rigor Wall
Routes Sorted
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Alaskan Vacation T 
Asian School Girls T,TR 
Bully, The T 
Crack Of Noon T 
Cullen's Rattle T 
Fat City T 
In A Silent Way T 
In Need of Repair T,TR 
Lunch Break T 
Mud Bucket T 
Pump-kin T,TR 
Rigor Mortise T 
Tastes Like Chicken T 
Thru-Mortise T 
Tree Hugger T,TR 
Trick or Treat T 

Lunch Break 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J. Shultis/J. Frazier 6/1/14?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 191
Submitted By: Jay Shultis on Jun 2, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Prow/roof

Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start below and left of the large prow/roof work up and right to a techy mantle under the roof. Mantle again to the ledge just left of the prow. Go ahead and eat your lunch then climb the off-fingers sized layback crack above the ledge trending R of a very small cherry tree wedged in the top of the crack. Commit to the slopey but easy mantle. Direct start is about 5.10+ with a V2 boulder problem to gain the first small ledge.

Location 

Directly under the walk up for Rigor/Double Tier

Protection 

Small (not tiny) stuff. Cams for cruxes and nuts off the ledge. Largest piece on the climb is .75 or #1. Larger cams can be used on the anchor. I needed doubles of .4 C4 to protect the mantle finish and the low bouldery crux below the roof. Same gear anchor can be used on Mud Bucket & Hokie Crack with a slight shift.


Photos of Lunch Break Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: finger/layback crack on left side of prow at the t...
BETA PHOTO: finger/layback crack on left side of prow at the t...

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