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Lunatic 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Michael Kimm, Summer 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,474
Submitted By: Michael Kimm on May 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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by far my favorite route at the Fringe!

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in the bowl 40 feet up under the impressive overhanging wall. Climb through four bolts of amazing, Red River Gorge-style varnish pockets to a shallow body-sized hueco. A stretch and some delicate moves up and right gain the flake on the arete, and six more bolts of sustained, steep jugs finally brings you to the anchor. Pumpy. Once it's fully cleaned up, it will be every inch its four stars.

Protection 

Bolts to chains.


Photos of Lunatic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian on the arete of Lunatic.
Brian on the arete of Lunatic.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian begins Lunatic. 95 feet to go!
Brian begins Lunatic. 95 feet to go!
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg in the opening pockets of Lunatic.
Greg in the opening pockets of Lunatic.
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg through the crux of Lunatic.
Greg through the crux of Lunatic.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocean at the anchor. Long sport pitch!
Ocean at the anchor. Long sport pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: And steep!!
And steep!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocean half way home.
Ocean half way home.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocean in the midst of (perhaps) the second ascent ...
Ocean in the midst of (perhaps) the second ascent ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee on a toprope burn of Lunatic. Steep!
Lee on a toprope burn of Lunatic. Steep!
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike in the middle of Lunatic's crux.
Mike in the middle of Lunatic's crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike four bolts up on Lunatic.
Mike four bolts up on Lunatic.

Comments on Lunatic Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 20, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This line is worth the hike- super fun and mellow start to a very doable crux to an interesting and sustained 50' of climbing. This route is long and fun and not to be missed. Very excited to see it clean up a bit more!
By Austin Boren
From: las vegas Nevada
Oct 14, 2013

This is a classic. Great, sustained climbing. 5.11- at least until the flake half way up breaks off.
By MN norske
From: Henderson
Mar 22, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

This and the rest of the climbs at this wall are suspect and chossy for the most part. Not my favorite crag. Needs a ton more traffic for cleaning up.
By Justin Streit
Nov 20, 2016

A couple things about this route. First of all, generally speaking, this thing is really great. The bottom is steep and fun. Pockets of honeycomb seem mostly strong and durable. The crux is punchy, but not bad. The upper section (post crux), however, is on lots of questionable rock. For the most part, you're on huge holds that seem solid. But, I had a huge brick-sized block (previously a jug) explode under my fat left foot, ending my send attempt. At the top, just before you start to traverse left on the final jug rail, there are a couple large flake-ish jugs for your right hand that flexed when I grabbed them. They are huge and could easily be pulled off, which I would have done if I thought there was any way I could ensure that the giant hunks of stone wouldn't have severed my rope or domed my belayer! Making it worse, because these blocks are so far off to the right from the anchors, it would be really hard to get them after clipping the chains. Not sure how to clean them, but these things will come off eventually and they could potentially cause an accident. Climb at your own risk! Maybe wear a helmet as the belayer. It's too bad because this climb really was a lot of fun, with a long battle against the pump. Not sure I'll go back to it. Let me know if anyone else pulls off any big stuff or can report on the condition of this route.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 24, 2016

No exaggeration, someone is going to get killed on this route or very lucky. I second Justin. Got on this today as a quick fun burn before some turkey day dinner and I was absolutely terrified. I've seriously been less scared on R/X slab at Suicide. The pockets felt fine on the way up but almost pulled a section off while cleaning. Then you're pulling on a huge pillar that's super suspect and creaky and the bolts also happen to be in it. You pass that and think "well at least i won't die AND kill my belayer now" but then you hit the blocks Justin was talking about. Nothing but scars and your pulling move after move on the next scar in the making. The rock under the patina is super dangerously soft. Most of the route of overhung so you're extra likely to pull shit off and it's more likely to hit your rope and/or belayer. Buyer beware.