REI Community
Hen's Nest Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astro Flex T 
Close to the Edge (CLOSED) T 
Finger Lickin' Good (CLOSED) T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Starship Trooper T 
Sultans of Stem (CLOSED) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lunatic Fringe 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Grant Stephens, Martin Hackworth 1984
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Endangered species MORE INFO >>>


Locate a splitter hand crack a few yards left of Finger Lickin' Good.

Climb the crack until it fades and then launch out onto the spookily chalkless face. Angle up and right to a ledge. Traverse right to bolt anchors over the chopped sport route and belay.


Few yards left of Finger Lickin' Good. There are bolt anchors to the right. Protect the ledge traverse as best as you can.


Hand sized gear.

Comments on Lunatic Fringe Add Comment
Show which comments
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

A single rack, nuts, and tricams work well on this route. There are some smaller pieces than hand sized required for the upper finger crack after the small roof. Bring webbing to replace anchor material. Don't trust old slings! The last little runout is not bad. If you fell, there would be nothing to hit and get injured. It is only about a body length away from several solid pieces of gear. The major thing to watch out for when topping out is not ripping off one of the holds. Otherwise, the moves are easy and not R.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About