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21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Children of Light S 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Ol' 5.10 S 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Rocket In My Pocket T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Fist T 
Stone Groove T 

Lunatic Fringe 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Barry Bates and Bev Johnson 1971
Page Views: 14,639
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (213)
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Jeff Crow cranks through the final moves of Lunati...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


My favorite line on this wall. Lunatic is a varied climb that has many different cruxes, so depending on your strengths you will likely find a different crux than your partner. Fantastic rock that demands finger locks, liebacking, thin hands and some face moves. Well protected throughout.


Hike right from Reeds Direct along the base for 100 yards or so. Climb a 5.6 section for 20-30 feet to gain the thin hands first crux of this route.


Standard rack, consider double set of cams from fingers to large hand sizes. Double Rope rappel.

Photos of Lunatic Fringe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lunatic Fringe Photo by Richard Shore
Lunatic Fringe Photo by Richard Shore
Rock Climbing Photo: Lunatic Fringe, from the base
BETA PHOTO: Lunatic Fringe, from the base
Rock Climbing Photo: Lunatic fringe: the last 10 ft.
Lunatic fringe: the last 10 ft.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anna entering the final crux.
Anna entering the final crux.

Comments on Lunatic Fringe Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 12, 2016
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 22, 2007

One of the best single pitches anywhere. Done it four times and no plans to stop going back.

Edit to add: this is a very good climb to push your limits on, as the protection is great throughout. Also, it begins with a moderate section, affords several rests, and is steep so that any fall in the crux sections should be cleen and airy.

Edit: Definitely DO the Eric Gable extension, Beyond Lunacy. 7 or so more pitches to the top. Beautiful route, excellent climbing all the way up, fun adventure hidden in plain sight of the Reeds pullout. The first pitch off of Lunatic is a bit of a gatekeeper maybe, but not at all bad, just keep the head screwed on tight and you're good.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 16, 2007

A candidate for the best single pitch for the grade in the Valley! Absolutely classic!
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
May 13, 2008

If this is at your limit consider triples on hand sized pieces. It's long and sustained in the upper portion.
By Rob Dillon
Apr 18, 2009

80m rope will just barely reach to TR.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
May 18, 2009

If you don't have hand sized pieces left for the pods at the top, the pods pinch down in between, allowing great stoppers and small cams.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Nov 30, 2009

Do this climb with one 70m rope by rappelling to the bushy ledge on the right side. Pull your rope and let it fall to the ground, then exit the ledge to the right and walk back around to the start.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Its a decent to good climb but IMHO there are much better climbs and pitches in the Valley (ie: the Rostrum being one of them and most of the stuff at the Cookie being as good). Having said that it is a very good climb to sink your jams into
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 28, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Wow, what a pitch. The opening section of tight hands definitely delivers the pump. I placed a red C3 (up top), 2x yellow aliens (up top too), a couple medium to big nuts (the one at the bottom mentioned in the Super Topo is bomber), and otherwise pretty much #0.5 to #3.5 camalot fest. It'll take as many of all those as you want to throw at it - the meat being green camalots to #2 camalots. Definitely a spot or two for #3s as well. I had to work to get the #3.5 in the wide bit... it had to go deep to fit. I placed it primarily to save my #1s.
By pkeds
From: Redondo Beach, CA
Dec 15, 2015

one of the best single pitches of climbing ive done. varied and sustained!
By Jeff Scheuerell
Dec 15, 2015

Yes, yes and yes!
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Mar 27, 2016

Had my Crazy Eye on this one for a while! Well worth the wait....crazy fun!! Ideal for lapping on a slow day, great ringlock practice down low and fingers/hands high.
By Jordan Cannon
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 3, 2016

Classic! My favorite route on the wall. You can set up a TR and run laps with an 80m rope, but if you're rappelling with a 70m, rap down to the ledge 40 ft up and then scramble over to a tree on the right and rap again to the base. Great practice for thin hands and ring locks, depending on your hand size.
By Michael Dom
Dec 12, 2016

It is a long route. Don't give up in the last ten feet, it looks tempting to break left, ignore it.

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