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Lunatic Cry 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: T. Anderson
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Apr 4, 2015

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Description 

The first pitch is a sandy crack to the right of Misfit Prophets and left of The Secrets of Fatima. This pitch is mostly easy and goes at about 5.8 or so with adequate pro. The anchor is for some reason a fair distance off to the right at a stance on a slab. There is one bolt, a chopped bolt and you can get in a couple of 1" to 1.5" cams in a good slot. Be careful crossing over to this anchor from the crack as there is lots of loose rock floating around on the slab.

For pitch two, you need to go back left a good ways into the big right facing corner. If you go straight up from the anchor there will be a fixed pin and some super junky rock leading up a broken crack feature. This is not the way to go. Get into the big corner and look for a bolt under a small rooflet. Follow the big corner to the top of the pillar to a 3 bolt anchor. 5.9 tops for this pitch with good pro.

Pitch three starts left of the belay at a line bolts. Follow the bolted crack to the top. 5.7.

This route is rated 5.10 in the Goss Guide, but seemed quite a bit easier, even with the sand, loose rock, and off route potential. It might be 5.8+ for 5.10 leaders.

Location 

Scramble or lead up the opening pillar past two bolts to a fixed line on a ledge system about 25 feet off the ground. Belay here for both this route and The Secrets of Fatima which is to the right a short distance..

Rap Misfit Prophets with a single 70m rope. The other anchors on the summit are a jumble of chain and random bolts well back from the lip. It is sort of a mess.

Protection 

A few cams and nuts from about 1/2" to 3" will take care of the first two pitches. Pitch 3 is entirely protected by bolts, around 6 of them? Bolt anchors on top, but rap from the Misfit Prophets anchors.


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By Sking
Apr 22, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This is a pretty fun route. The first pitch takes you up an easy crack to a piton as described above. I went left at the piton to the corner and set up an anchor off the single bolt and two nuts in the corner. It was pretty bomber and it set up my partner for the next pitch for minimal rope drag. That being said, it would be fine to set up an anchor at the piton as well; totally up to you. I have to agree with the rating, 5.10 feels pretty liberal.

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