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Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch T 
Enter the Dragon T 
Gimme Danger T 
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 
Last Shout T 
Lunar Tick S 
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 
Toymakers Dream T 
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 
Valentine Crack T 

Lunar Tick 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randy Kieliszewski and Jon Ray, January 1st, 1990
Page Views: 917
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 10, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Near the right side of the Dragon Arch buttress system is a scattered patina west face. There are 6 bolts that lead through progressively better rock. The start seems to use the flake system to the left until you can gain the gritty face. A few more moves leads to an exciting angling finger traverse that begins the great section of this climb. Positive edges, steep clean rock are all that you encounter the remainder of the route. Toss in the mantle onto the jumbo c'head, and you have the ingredients for a great climb. Just if the bottom section would clean up.

Protection 

6 draws for the route and 2 for the anchors.


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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Meh. This would be an awesome line if it had a start and a finish. Unfortunately sticking to the bolt line is way contrived and plain hard (think hard 12 gritty slab). Getting out of the groove right at the first bolt and climbing edges to a brushy crack seemed like a good way to go, you can then traverse on the slab above the 2nd bolt and enjoy 4 bolts worth of crisp edges and slab moves. Unfortunately the finish forces you into another chossy crack unless you work really hard to stay on the face.
By tenesmus
Jun 15, 2010

Mike, this one could use your loving more than "Two Heads" does. They all seemed fine and bomber. Just rusty.
By zoso
Jun 15, 2010

I thought this had very little grit--mostly clean. You can get on the bolt line right after clipping the 1st bolt and then bail left @ the top. Staying right @ the top doesn't make sense. Good route.

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