REI Community
Sector A
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aloa to Urga S 
Batida S 
Luna Piena S 
MTB S 
No Global S 
Peggy S 
Piccola e Bella S 
Placca motoria S 
Tempera S 
Togo S 
Vie Tranquillo S 

Luna Piena 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 5 pitches, 375'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Dustin B on Sep 15, 2013

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Description 

Multi-Pitch sport climb on the left-center side of wall. The quality of climbing and stone is fantastic (save for P1), the condition of some of the fixed hardware in spots isn't that great. Otherwise this a 3-4 star climb.

P1. 5.8R-Start just right of 'Peggy' up the blocky corner. climb this up to grassy terraces and then traverse left and lieback up a small flake to gain the anchors of 'peggy' and 'no global'. Quite runout. Really, a much better option would be to climb one of the aforementioned routes.

P2. 5.10. Step left and climb up the face to a small ledge. Continue Straight up to a bolt belay under a small roof.

P3. 5.10. Climb to the right and find a bolt, then continue more or less straight up to a bolt belay.

P4. 5.10+. Climb to the left, then up.

P5. 5.10. Shorter pitch, climb almost to the top of cliff.

Location 

Sector A. Route starts about 80' left of where the approach trail meets the cliff, up a chossy, blocky corner with a large cairn at the bottom. Rappel the route.

Protection 

Well spaced bolts, the occasional bent pin (mostly blades), Bolt anchors.


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